Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just want to know 17x7JJ, 5x114.3 PCD and possibly a +42 offset from m35 rim and tyres are 215/55/17 will fit in my S2 or not.

Thank you

I think they'll end up too far inside your guards with that offset, won't look very nice, I'd look for something with an offset of at least +30 and around 8" wide.

they will fit but wont look too good. my car came over from japan with 17 x 7" rim and around a +45 offset. tire was a 225 50 R17 and i had no trouble with the tire hitting the strut so a 215 will be fine. the fronts sat in the front guard by a mile lol. the rears where better but still sat in a little.

so to answer your question, yes it will fit. but if you have a choice hold off for a rim with a better offset. i'm now running a +30 offset rim and they sit in the front guards ok, rears sit perfect once lowered. car is a auto S2.

Just yesterday I fit 19x8s on the front wearing 235/35 with no dramas at all

19x9.5s fleshed the back sporting 245x35s.

Wouldnt fit with standard springs but the coilovers allowed for them (just, I put on an 8mm spacer to stop the rubber skimming the strut on corners, and only because I couldnt source a 5mm spacer)

Steam rollin!

With a lip roll on the back there will allow enough clearance to slam it down another 20mm (stock ride height atm)

Just yesterday I fit 19x8s on the front wearing 235/35 with no dramas at all

19x9.5s fleshed the back sporting 245x35s.

Wouldnt fit with standard springs but the coilovers allowed for them (just, I put on an 8mm spacer to stop the rubber skimming the strut on corners, and only because I couldnt source a 5mm spacer)

Steam rollin!

With a lip roll on the back there will allow enough clearance to slam it down another 20mm (stock ride height atm)

You might have problem with different rolling diameters front to rear. . . .

rolling diameter should be the same?

Just widths are different... proving a smooth ride so far..

sorry mate but the rolling diameter will be different. having a 35 profile tyre means that the side wall is 35% of the width, therefore if you have a wider tyre, the sidewall height increases in proportion with the width increase. 235/35 = 82.25mm sidewall. 245/35 = 85.72mm sidewall. which means you have a 7mm difference in tyre height. this may be enough to cause trouble.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...