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got a 91 corrolla (or holden nova). only problem with them is the temp gauge reads from the bottom hose, it used to boil the radiator sitting on half and the thermo still hadnt come on... but bought a new radiator and fitted a manual switch for the thermo and now you could drive it round australia 5 times

L20 bluebird

My friend and i bought one for 100 dollars and it was supposed to last the weekend. 9 months later we drove it to and left it out the front of a wreckers yard because it had an expired yellow sticker. That car went to hell and back and the thing that stopped it was an expired yellow sticker, nothing mechanical.

Old toyota. Nuff said.

I bought a 79 corolla in 99 for $1500. Took the kms from 336000 to 412000. Sold it to a mate for $1000. He took that old 5K engine through to 580000.

And the engine didn't die! The cops told him to fix the rust, and he didn't bother, just left it on the side of the road. I've seen it driving around since, covered in bog.

Sweet ride that.

... cheap as possible but pretty much bullet proof. I don't particularly care about looks, age, ride comfort, anything other than something that keeps going and going and going.

On re-reading this, it could just as well have been written by someone on the rebound!

  • 3 weeks later...

So I ended up driving an Avalon until I could get my new 'line. My uncle was kind enough to lend it to me as it is their "dog" car. Not exactly a bunky but not much fun either. Fill up a bath to the top with water, pop some wheels and a V6 engine on it and drive around in that for a while. That's pretty much the experience for you.

I got a 96 Daihatsu Charade, drinks bugger all fuel, cheap as dirt to maintain, and was so good I ended up buying another one for the wife! :lol:

The car is so reliable, I haven't ever had a problem with it!

In the wet also does great handbrake turns lol.

Might sell it if price is right.

I just bought a 98 EL falcon wagon, 5 speed manual, HD clutch, dedicated gas!

Its got all the luxurious (ish) bits on it, a/c, p/w cruise control etc etc, plenty of room, and its only like 35 bucks to fill the tank!!

Was very close to your 1500 price range too! Tuff wagon!

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    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
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