Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Hasn't Run For 4 Months

Crimpage

By Crimpage,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Crimpage Community Regular

Crimpage

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I've had 2 cars for the last 6 months, and my Skyline has sat still doing nothing now for the last 4 months due to it's tires needing to be replaced and me not having the cash to do it.

I've now sold my second car freeing up the cash to get the Skyline sorted again, but I'd like to just hear some recommendations on what I should do for a car that hasn't been run / started for 4 months.

I plan on:

* Changing Oil & Filter

* Changing Radiator Fluid

* Changing spark plugs

Should I be completely replacing the brake & steering fluid etc... ?

Cheers,

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314119-car-hasnt-run-for-4-months/
Share on other sites
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I've had this situation quite a bit (3 cars)

I just put a battery charger on for 24 hours or so, then while that's happening, change the oil if it's old and filter aswel, check water in radiator (check, not full replace), then fire it up.

Drive it around the block then check the water and oil levels again. Or even just start it up and run in the driveway until it's warm and up to normal temp.

I drive without using much throttle until the fuel is almost empty, and drive it as low as I dare (like the light will definatly have been on for a while), then a full tank of pump98.

Don't forget to check air pressures in tyres.

Brake bleeding I just take it to a hoist at the first opportunity, it's not like you can't drive it with a spongy pedal :)

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Sorry forgot to mention it wouldn't hurt to let tHe motor crank a bit before letting it fire up to build some pressure

+1. I disconnect the CAS plug and crank the motor until the oil warning light goes off. I do this when i change oil as well to make sure its all the way through.

TRB-001 Rising Star

TRB-001

Posted
Posted

best thing will be do do wot both people said above (change oil, crank with cas disconnected until the oil light goes off) all that is most important...

as for the recommended running the car low on fuel, i would actually advise the opposite, and go and fill up the car with the best fuel u can get (to dilute any water or contaminents) that may be present, if there is any.....

remember ur fuel pump picks up fuel from the very bottom of the tank regardless of fuel level so its better to dilute any crap thats in there.

all in all, 4 months is nothing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • WMDC35
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...