Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as title states, i have a set of SSR Strusse wheels for sale, have freshly powder coated black centres, huge dish and would look insane on a stagea. follow link for pics and contact info

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...ml#entry5153488

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314533-ssr-strusse-19x10-19-19x11-11/
Share on other sites

huge dish and would look insane on a stagea

would look insane on a stagea.. if they would fit.

you won't get an 11+11 on the rear without a spacer to clear the struts, then you'd need wider guards to cover them

Not to

mention as soon as u drove atessa wd flip out!

why? just make sure you get the right tyre sizes to maintain the same rolling diameter front and back.

why? just make sure you get the right tyre sizes to maintain the same rolling diameter front and back.

yeah people put different size tyres on the front and rear of stageas and awd skylines all the time, sure its not reccomended but its not like they have a locked centre diff. and im pretty sure they will fit, my quick offset maths says they will. but of course if someones interested id reccomend a test fitment first

yeah people put different size tyres on the front and rear of stageas and awd skylines all the time, sure its not reccomended but its not like they have a locked centre diff. and im pretty sure they will fit, my quick offset maths says they will. but of course if someones interested id reccomend a test fitment first

what? no.

you have to maintain the same rolling diameter front and back or your ATESSA. This means the diameter of your wheels plus the tyres in the front have to be the same as the diameter of your wheels plus the tyres in the back. Tyre profiles are measured in percentages of their width, so when you run staggered widths, you have to make sure the profiles are still the same size.

use this to help you choose:

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

It is doable on a Stag with those wheels.

235/35/19 front and 275/30/19 rear and the rolling heights will be the closest you can get for staggered 19s. from memory, they're only 3mm apart

D.

currently has 245 35 19 and 275 30 19

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...