Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All Good now..

Thanks every1 for ur input... Partly my Fault. As having a Bigger Turbo i was playing around

with my Power FC with the Hand Controller and trying to see if my AFM reading was maxing out.

I accidently changed the AFM settings to different type of AFM which caused to Foul the Plugs and further

continue to Cause problems. Workshop sorted it out 4 me & diagnosed the problem, checked all sensors,

set the correct afm, changed my plugs to the correct one and took it 4 test run to make sure it's working fine.

Really need a Tune cuz it's boosting it to 16 Pounds on 2nd gear with just running off a 14psi Actuator n HKS EVC turned off.

Knock reading is below 60 n odd 30 here n there from time 2 time.. but doesn't tell me if it's leaning out.

Edited by Black_CSR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...