Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've got some bits to suit 33 gtst for sale, no photos for now but could organise some later.

1; A pair of GAB struts to suit R33 gts/t (may fit 34 as well) fronts, no leaks as far i can see. Asking $50.

2; A set of R33 (possibly fit to R34) strut tops, in fair condition. Asking $50.

3; A set of springs, I think it's aftermarket but not 100% certain, have some rust though. I'm giving these away for FREE pick up only or they're destined for rubbish bin.

4; Cat-back exhaust JASMA approved for R33 gtst, may fit into gtr but don't quote me on this. Asking $50.

All items are located at Frankston South, VIC. I can be contacted via PM or SMS on 0430 129 511.

Cheers

Grant

IMG_0008.jpg

BTW it's 3" from cat and split to 2x 2" (i think) under the diff then meet up at rear muffler.

Cheers

Grant

Exhaust is SOLD

Everything in 1st post is still available, make an offer.

Cheers

Grant

My dad is coming home tomorrow and could you help me out by purchasing items I've got for sale?

I'm negotiable, so feel free to make an offer.

Cheers

Grant

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...