Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

The time has come to part with what was once meant to be another project car...

I have moved house and dont have the time, money or room to work on 2 projects at once anymore... My R32 has to take preference.

So, reluctantly I am hoping that an enthusiast will take it and start working on it from where I left off...

Details:

Red 1985 300ZX non-turbo Australian release.

Drivetrain, suspension and brakes:

Automatic

Shifts perfectly. Fully rebuilt, have receipts.

Suspension is tight, shocks, springs and bushes were replaced a few years ago.

Steering is tight and direct - new rack boots installed, new power steering belt and fluid.

Brakes are perfect, Calipers overhauled front and rear. Rear discs are brand new and fronts have lots of meat on them.

Wheels are stock 15"

Engine:

VG30E 3.0 V6

Strong motor, doesnt blow smoke, regularly serviced.

Exhaust manifold gasket needs to be replaced (gasket supplied) on the drivers side.

Needs a new starter motor.

Interior:

Light brown colour, seats and carpets are ok condition but worn. Dash is cracked but not faded.

All electrics work (power windows, guages etc.).

Autotechnica sports steering wheel and boss kit (have the original wheel as well).

Alpine CD / MP3 player and aftermarket speakers.

Exterior:

Paint is a bit faded, needs a good polish (photos below are after a good hand polish).

Bumpers have some scrapes but nothing too serious.

Body is fairly straight (some small dents), no fiberglass repairs or bog.

Summary:

This a good example of an 85' Z, is comfortable to drive, goes well and will make an excellent cruiser for someone who can put in a little work to get it back to excellent condition.

As I said before, the only reason I am selling is because I have moved house and simply cant finish the work I started on it.

I have spent thousands repairing and replacing most of the original parts but there are still some things left to do... The starter motor needs replacing because it works whenever it decides to, there is a short in the headlight wiring somewhere (low beams work fine) and the exhaust needs some gaskets replaced - thats about it (I think).

It even comes with the original equipment leather pouches for the targa roof!

300zx01.jpg

300zx02.jpg

300zx03.jpg

I bought this car for $2,500 and have spent at least that much again restoring it....

All I am asking for without rego is:

$1,200 ono

I can re-new the rego for extra if you want.

The car is at my house located in Canberra (south)

Leave a post in this thread if you are interested and I will reply as soon as I can. :(

Cheers,

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315930-act-1985-nissan-300zx/
Share on other sites

oh oh so tempting...

My R30 is going to be offline for a little while to 'service' the engine, apparently the engine exhaust extraction fan wasnt fitted when it came to australia so I need to bolt it all on....

how many km?

will it pass rego inspection without problems? (i guess exhaust gasket...)

tyres good?

any interior & engine bay pics??

I have a spare engine that has an extra set of camshafts AND a single exhaust extraction fan... VG30det FTW!

I havent checked the Kms recently but I think its at about 300 thou...

1. It should pass rego without issue once the electrics and exhaust gaskets are fixed.

2. The tyres have plenty of tread, one of them is worn unevenly due to a bad alignment that has since been fixed.

3. No interior or engine bay pics... I'll have to get the camera out again.

There is very little left to do to get this Z running almost like new again... I just dont have the space to finish it.

this is one neat car for its age and km's (if you ignore the cracked dash!). But seriously, this would be a great daily as its very comfy to drive and has enough power to get you out of trouble! free bump... :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...