Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went ahead and upgraded the front brakes on my Series 2 today.

I actually didn't think the brakes were bad at all to begin with, but I had access to a kit of parts at a decent price and thought it was worth a go.

The kit uses R32GTR calipers, 324mm discs (though 330 would fit too I think) and some brackets and spacers.

I've used DS2500 pads.

Here's the calipers after cleaning up.

05042010634.jpg

I decided I wanted something a bit different for the colour. So I went for dark blue smooth hammerite aerosol. I don't believe in these fancy heat resistant brake calipers paints, I just think they are unnecessary.

07042010638.jpg

The S2 brake mounts are M14 as per R34 and because all other prior models are M12, I had ordered some 14mm O/D 1mm wall stainless tube. This just needed cutting to the correct length to use as sleeves inside the caliper mounting holes on the hub carrier. Here you can see those bits and the old 290mm original disc with the new disc.

11042010642.jpg

The original caliper unbolted and disc removed, so that I could weigh up fitment. It turned out that I needed to cut just a little of the bottom leading edge of the disc shield to clear the new caliper.

11042010641.jpg

Here's the adapter bracket fitted ( this is the O/S because I forgot to take a pic of the N/S )

11042010649.jpg

I used R32 GTR flexy hoses and slightly longer hard pipes into the calipers because the Stagea ones would have been too short and also it just seemed sensible to avoid the well known banjo bolt issues. I will be able to braided lines much easier too.

11042010645.jpg

A quick bleed up and the finished article

11042010647.jpg

I took my motor out for a run to bed them in and there is a definate improvement in stopping power, but possibly a little loss of feel, though that may improve with a few more miles.

It took me about 4 and half hours to do the job, but I was slow because I'm still recovering from a broken ankle and I have to keep taking a break.

Overall I think it's worth it, but I'm glad I didn't pay the £400 or so that this sort of kit would normally be because the improvement wouldn't be worth that to me. Though it might be a bigger improvement over S1 brakes.

One other advantage is that the R32 alloy calipers are much lighter than the original iron ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316292-my-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Well done. Where did you get the kit from and can you just buy the brackets?

It was a used kit on ebay. From measuring the discs, I am almost certain they are 324mm GTR ones.

I've seen similar kits, pretty certain one was on Uniques site, nismo.com.au

I did take a template of the bracket and I measured the spacers too. I could measure the bracket up and do some drawings when I get time.

Dean

It was a used kit on ebay. From measuring the discs, I am almost certain they are 324mm GTR ones.

I've seen similar kits, pretty certain one was on Uniques site, nismo.com.au

I did take a template of the bracket and I measured the spacers too. I could measure the bracket up and do some drawings when I get time.

Dean

if you could make a cad up it would be amazing or even scan in what you took down

trying to work out how to do the same but with r33 callipers

i wonder what the biggest rotor you could do with a setup like this?

also, what thickness are they? and what material?

thanks

Edited by pipster11
if you could make a cad up it would be amazing or even scan in what you took down

trying to work out how to do the same but with r33 callipers

i wonder what the biggest rotor you could do with a setup like this?

also, what thickness are they? and what material?

thanks

Sorry I don't have any CAD software, but I'm sure I can sort something out for a drawing.

The R33 calipers will fit, they are the same fittings.The only difference between my R32 GTR calipers and R33GTST ones dimensionally is possibly the width because R32GTR are for 32mm thick discs and R33 are 30mm thick iirc.

The mounting brackets are 15mm thick and the spacers are 25mm thick. All steel I think.

I measured up when I was fitting and the biggest rotor/disc that would fit my setup would be 330mm, in fact I suspect that it is a 330mm setup because I have a little overhang of the pads on the 324mm discs I have.

can you post up an dimensions you have?

just did some research

thought that 32 gtr was 280 but thicker than the gtst's but its 296 like r33's but 32mm thick

any form of diagram would be awesome, i'm doing engineering so making a cad file is easy for me, and may even have access to some form of computerised cutter :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...