Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, ive owned this car for about 6 months now.

reason im selling is to buy a tow car and fund a track car(interested in swaps with wagons, utes maybe 4x4, mainly anything with a tow bar)

heres the run down:

does not come with rwc. maybe be able to organise at extra cost

rego till november

1997 nissan 200sx

170,xxxklms

manual

exedy cushion button, replaced 5,000k's ago

purple/shiraz.

colour coated rocker cover

exterior:

factory lip

vertex side skirts

vertex rear bumper

JDM silvia badge on bonnet

flares/rolled gaurds allround

rear spolier deleted, no holes

lenso D1r 18x9+15 allround

front tyres dunlop 3000a, rears crappy tyres

6500k hid

interior:

s15 seats front and rear

apexi EL boost gauge

Apexi PowerFC ECU

razo turbo timer

greedy profec-b boost controller

polished gear knob

pioneer headunit

cadiance 2 way splits

doors have a sh*tload load of sound deadening

12" sub and amp

suspension & braking

front: slotted rotors, project mu pads, braided brake lines

rear: slotted rotors, ebc greed stuff, braided brake lines

apexi N1 coilovers f6kg r8kg

nolathane castor rod bushes

drift pineapples

spexi strut brace(front)

cusco strut brace(rear)

engine

greedy front mount

trust catback, magna flow cat, 3in front and dump

metal intake pipe with blitz lm air filter

2871r turbo(14psi at the moment)

braided lines

GKteck RAS

550cc nismo injectors

z32 afm

walbro fuel pump

NGK platnum plugs

battery in boot

cusco BMS.

may missed afew things but thats the jist.

engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, brake fluid(dot 5.1), coolant have all been changed abouts 2 months ago with top brand fluids.

car was tuned at protek automotive and made 229rwkw on 16psi, on a safe tune and runs amazing, city driving a get about 450k's

highway close to 550k's.

car has been well looked after and would suit anyone who wants a tuff street car, knock on wood, ive never been pulled over in the this car and i use this car as a daily driver

im looking for a swap with something less of value either track ready car, rolling shell or tow car

asking 15,000ono seeing as ive spend 12,500 buying the car, added 2871r, apexi powerfc, coilovers, wheels, injectors,z32 and tune which adds up to about 5.5k.

pm me for more details

serious offers only

no tyre kickers

im located in melbourne

post-28434-1271132896_thumb.jpg

post-28434-1271132902_thumb.jpg

post-28434-1271132908_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316521-immac-s14a/
Share on other sites

Just a headsup.. Not many people on here care about how much the parts you bought after you purchased the car are worth as everyone knows you never get your money back on mods.. I'm not having a go it's just something people will point out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316521-immac-s14a/#findComment-5178494
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...