Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

As the topic say I've been reading the forum for years, decided to signup over a year ago and now it's time to start posting :)

Anyway.. My ride

Vehicle: R33 Skyline series 1.5 (s2 AFM coils etc.)

Turbo: T04 V-Trim

Driveline: nothing worth noting

Exhaust: 3" Turbo to tail

Suspension: Replaced before my time, to what I have nfi.

Brakes: stock, QFM HPX pads came in the post today :D

Wheels: 17" need replacing (look a bit homo with this kit)

Modifications: pod, boost controller, front and rear strut braces, front mount IC, splitfire coil packs, body kit etc.

Stereo: Basic pioneer mp3/cd player and 6"x9" kenwood ovals in the back and 6" Kevlar pioneer splits in the front.

Power: TBA.. trawling the "wanted to buy" section for a RB20 ECU and z32 AFM so I can Nistune

Skyline%2002s.jpg

Skyline%2001s.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...