Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

What are you using the car for, I only ask this as Im unhappy with my outcome, I would rather more response than to a turbo that comes on late and hard, my set up is more suited to drag but I wanted track. The spool time is crap, its like waiting-waiting-waiting-wheel spin.

Fair enough, what turbo& setup are you using? I'm mainly going to be using mine for street, with the odd track/drift/drag, basically looking for an all rounder ay.

  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up the first lot of goodies today :wub:

post-71760-1273743661_thumb.jpg

Shiny new Arias forged pistons 9.5:1 compression

post-71760-1273743722_thumb.jpg

+ piston rings

post-71760-1273743701_thumb.jpg

And, most importantly, stickers....

post-71760-1273743735_thumb.jpg

First step on the way :( smoky burnouts here i come! lol

Having had a bit of a read through some more stuff i'm thinking i'm gonna definately get some forged conrods and go for a t04z. Would the engine as i'm plannin it atm handle that size turbo? what, if anything, would i need to change for that to work well? The head is definately gonna get a light porting and stronger valve springs, adj cam gears and aftermarket cams plus 850cc injectors adjustable fuel reg and so forth

Also, just thinking about using the TiAL 50mm BOV, would that be high flow enough? I like the sound of em lol but if it won't flow enough i'll go for a another option. What do you guys reckon?

Just make sure you get a twin scroll rear housing and keep it small and get a manifold to suit.

Sweet thanks mate

Can you give me some dimesions there in terms of "keep it small"? And what exactly is a twin scroll rear housing lol

small would be a .81ish A/R or a .84ish split pulse/twin scroll.

will be capable of making 400+rwkw or 540+hp

engine will handle the turbo, depends how much boost you run through it though.

the hydraulic lifters will be 'possibly' the weak link depending on psi and power

Edited by jangles

Cheers for the link/picture D_Stirls i now get the idea behind split pulse lol makes a lotta sense when ya figure it out!

Okay sweet so .84a/r t04z split pulse and a suitable manifold?

It already sounds awesome just typing it lol I cant wait haha

In terms of a split pulse manifold for rb30's who of the big companies make em? or is it more likely to be a custom made job?

sweet as, yeah i know a few good fabricators here i'll have a chat to, just wondering if any of the big companies make em off the shelf like lol

yeah i'll check rips out too, already planning on using a rips intake so getting an exhaust manifold at the same time makes sense even to me haha

these guys are pretty much the big companies when it comes to manifolds i think. apart from japanese gear.

a specifically suited manifold that is as good quality as the japanese stuff locally, offer lifetime warrenty too

did you consider rips building your whole motor? they do something really special with them haha

Edited by jangles

Yeah fair enough, i'll have a look around see what I can find out

Yeah, they're doing my r34 GTR VSpec II Nur...after i win lotto :D

lol yeah i did think about it but in the end it was just too expensive, plus to be honest i'm not looking for a car that insane lol

Edited by MNTLRB

ha yeah, price is always a key issue!

they build mild engines aswell though.

anyway, make sure you get a split pulse/twin srcoll manifold when getting a split pulse/twin scroll turbo.

i still dont think you need the TO4Z for your power goals, but it gives you head room for down the track!

ha yeah, price is always a key issue!

they build mild engines aswell though.

anyway, make sure you get a split pulse/twin srcoll manifold when getting a split pulse/twin scroll turbo.

i still dont think you need the TO4Z for your power goals, but it gives you head room for down the track!

Yeah, I know it's a bit over the top, but i'd rather do it once and do it right, and I just have a feeling that I'd probably end up changing to the t04z later on anyway so I figure I'm just saving myself time lol

And yeah I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get addicted to power hunting (I've already upped my power goal from when I started) so this is playing it safe lol

Haha and somehow I think it's only gonna get worse not better :(

so still need some idea on cams, anybody have ideas? Basically want mild gain but don't wanna have to modify the head extensively (doing full recon, mild port, reseat valves and aftermarket valve springs, adjustable cam gears)

anybody know what stock cam specs are for r32 25de head?

Haha and somehow I think it's only gonna get worse not better :(

so still need some idea on cams, anybody have ideas? Basically want mild gain but don't wanna have to modify the head extensively (doing full recon, mild port, reseat valves and aftermarket valve springs, adjustable cam gears)

anybody know what stock cam specs are for r32 25de head?

go with the biggest drop in cams you can get to suit, i wouldnt bother with the DE cams for what youre going to do.

http://www.kelfordcams.com/applications.aspx#Nissan

local to you, and are a great bit of gear

drop in wont even matter.

if the head is apart, u can get it clearanced to suit bigger.for not much more.

something around the 262 9.3 would be good. H182-B

Edited by jangles

Yeah, i was never planning on using the standard cams, just wanted to know their specs so I can get an idea of what sorta increase any aftermarket ones were.

For those ones (H182B) I would only have to get the head clearanced for them to work ok?

Also I cant really tell from the website, I assume the prices are US $?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...