Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

everytime i read all these bad things about N1's it makes me want to go straight down to the shed and unbolt mine. lol i must admit they were abitch at the track on sunday, no punch out of the turns unless over 5k, DVS32R was infront of me, his got n1's too, just got his car tuned, and you could see him pull away soon as the apex would end on the corners. Its got alot to do with Tune too. i see 8psi at 4.5k, i was running 16psi on the day seeing full boost by 5.8kish. Laggy as hell, would have to down change to second to keep it within powerband to punch out of corners. Plus loose even more time changing back up gears. ill prob go -5's when i do my build.

I can't imagine what another 100rwkw with the same (if not better) response would be like... but if I'm ever in NSW I'm coming round to find out! lol

I'm keen to try E85 next... figure as far as bang for buck at this point nothing can beat it

edit: yeah Paul the Mines 34GTR runs shorter diff ratios... I'm keen to try the GTS4 diffs, they are about 4.3 from memory... can't hurt the cruising speed that much, I hardly ever use 5th gear as with the big cams it runs more efficiently cruising at 3,500 - 4,000 rpm... you can hear its actually quieter at that rpm too which took some getting used to, looking down and seeing 4k on the tacho makes you want to shift up

Come to a DECA when im there :(

Its getting a new exhaust and more boost over the next few weeks

Do you, or anyone else know exactly what the Mines R34 has for driveline ratios?

Ive been in your car, before you owned it.

What a machine that thing is!

OP: As said, its up to you to find the amount of lag you're happy to put up with in the conditions you drive it in. Mine is between 3500/4000 and 8500rpm for HKS GTRS's although a 3L bottom end, that suits me, may not suit others. It would be a good idea to look through the dyno result threads in this section aswel, some decent info in there (aswel as a lot of crap results)

Dude, your car sounds like an Animal, boost from 3.5 - 4 K on RS's !

It all comes down to how much later will i make boost on my 2.7 then you do on your 30 ? if i could sort of get some idea of this i could either say "yep, GT-RS power" or -5's I have a feeling ide be pretty happy with both. the car is still street driven but im definately not one of these people who harps on about lag driving around town unless we are talking something monumental.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Mitch.

Dude, your car sounds like an Animal, boost from 3.5 - 4 K on RS's !

It all comes down to how much later will i make boost on my 2.7 then you do on your 30 ? if i could sort of get some idea of this i could either say "yep, GT-RS power" or -5's I have a feeling ide be pretty happy with both. the car is still street driven but im definately not one of these people who harps on about lag driving around town unless we are talking something monumental.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Mitch.

Sorry, a tad higher than that, my bad;

Dyno24310005readable.jpg

I think it ran gts4 4.3:1 instead of the factory 3.6:1

plus epic close ratio gearbox

Thanks :(

I thought the box was just a getrag though and the change was to the diffs and a carbon shaft?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...