Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

everytime i read all these bad things about N1's it makes me want to go straight down to the shed and unbolt mine. lol i must admit they were abitch at the track on sunday, no punch out of the turns unless over 5k, DVS32R was infront of me, his got n1's too, just got his car tuned, and you could see him pull away soon as the apex would end on the corners. Its got alot to do with Tune too. i see 8psi at 4.5k, i was running 16psi on the day seeing full boost by 5.8kish. Laggy as hell, would have to down change to second to keep it within powerband to punch out of corners. Plus loose even more time changing back up gears. ill prob go -5's when i do my build.

I can't imagine what another 100rwkw with the same (if not better) response would be like... but if I'm ever in NSW I'm coming round to find out! lol

I'm keen to try E85 next... figure as far as bang for buck at this point nothing can beat it

edit: yeah Paul the Mines 34GTR runs shorter diff ratios... I'm keen to try the GTS4 diffs, they are about 4.3 from memory... can't hurt the cruising speed that much, I hardly ever use 5th gear as with the big cams it runs more efficiently cruising at 3,500 - 4,000 rpm... you can hear its actually quieter at that rpm too which took some getting used to, looking down and seeing 4k on the tacho makes you want to shift up

Come to a DECA when im there :(

Its getting a new exhaust and more boost over the next few weeks

Do you, or anyone else know exactly what the Mines R34 has for driveline ratios?

Ive been in your car, before you owned it.

What a machine that thing is!

OP: As said, its up to you to find the amount of lag you're happy to put up with in the conditions you drive it in. Mine is between 3500/4000 and 8500rpm for HKS GTRS's although a 3L bottom end, that suits me, may not suit others. It would be a good idea to look through the dyno result threads in this section aswel, some decent info in there (aswel as a lot of crap results)

Dude, your car sounds like an Animal, boost from 3.5 - 4 K on RS's !

It all comes down to how much later will i make boost on my 2.7 then you do on your 30 ? if i could sort of get some idea of this i could either say "yep, GT-RS power" or -5's I have a feeling ide be pretty happy with both. the car is still street driven but im definately not one of these people who harps on about lag driving around town unless we are talking something monumental.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Mitch.

Dude, your car sounds like an Animal, boost from 3.5 - 4 K on RS's !

It all comes down to how much later will i make boost on my 2.7 then you do on your 30 ? if i could sort of get some idea of this i could either say "yep, GT-RS power" or -5's I have a feeling ide be pretty happy with both. the car is still street driven but im definately not one of these people who harps on about lag driving around town unless we are talking something monumental.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Mitch.

Sorry, a tad higher than that, my bad;

Dyno24310005readable.jpg

I think it ran gts4 4.3:1 instead of the factory 3.6:1

plus epic close ratio gearbox

Thanks :(

I thought the box was just a getrag though and the change was to the diffs and a carbon shaft?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...