Jump to content
SAU Community

Good Double Din Unit

Ericjayrol

By Ericjayrol,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ericjayrol Community Regular

Ericjayrol

Posted
Posted

hey,

Im looking at upgrading the stock system in my R34, I want to get a double din so it fits in nicely as a nice and easy replacement to the stock unit.

I want it to have front USB and some connectivity to the Iphone, whether its a dock or just the ability to use the cable and sit it in the cup holder.

I want good quality audio aswell obviously, and want something cheap enough, no more than $600

I plan to further upgrade by amplifying the stock system and putting in a sub.

Any advice on a good head unit to match my needs? Also, ideas for the good sub and amp set up would be nice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317917-good-double-din-unit/
Share on other sites
Ericjayrol Community Regular

Ericjayrol

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Is that so? So I made the right decision then :happy:

Yeah, they are incredible!

I went with the:

CDE-102E headunit - 2 preouts with subwoofer control, 50W x 4, mp3/wma/aac playback, front usb & aux, rear ipod/iphone

SPR-17S component 2 way speaker system - 330W peak 110W RMS, 6 1/2"

MRP-F600 4 channel power amp - 1320W max, variable high pass/low pass crossover, bass eq, speaker level input, 150W RMS x 4 2Ω, 14.4V

I don't know the info of the sub, but its the matching one for the rest of the system.

Let me know what u all reckon, it cost me $2000 with professional installation and all the amp wiring kit and all that.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted (edited)

I installed a JVC KDR606 head unit into my Skyline that I had saved from my previous vehicle. I'm still learning things about audio, but it seems to have near similar specs to the Alpine CDE-102E unit. It only has one set of preouts however, but I havn't gotten to the part of looking at amps or subs just yet. I think it cost me $250. I remember reading on here about someone trashing JVC products and saying they were total crap. I hope mine isn't a crap one. I sounds good, works great with usb and seems to put out some nice power for the speaks I do have in the car. Anyone else used this unit?

09040803e07c29.jpg

Edited by KrazyKong
Ericjayrol Community Regular

Ericjayrol

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The JVC looks nice, Ive heard a lot of people trash them aswell, but all the JVC systems i've heard sound all sweet.

Maybe the cheaper JVC units just aren't all that good, but thats to be expected with anything cheap

  • 2 months later...
08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted
Is that so? So I made the right decision then :laugh:

Yeah, they are incredible!

I went with the:

CDE-102E headunit - 2 preouts with subwoofer control, 50W x 4, mp3/wma/aac playback, front usb & aux, rear ipod/iphone

SPR-17S component 2 way speaker system - 330W peak 110W RMS, 6 1/2"

MRP-F600 4 channel power amp - 1320W max, variable high pass/low pass crossover, bass eq, speaker level input, 150W RMS x 4 2Ω, 14.4V

I don't know the info of the sub, but its the matching one for the rest of the system.

Let me know what u all reckon, it cost me $2000 with professional installation and all the amp wiring kit and all that.

looks like a pretty good setup. we what pictures NOW

just a couple of things 150W RMS x 4 is for 2Ω a 4Ω load results in less power

and what is powering the sub

Ericjayrol Community Regular

Ericjayrol

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The sub is being bridged on the amp, the set up only has front speakers, no rears.

I know it seems incomplete that way, but its a very good set up and sounds clear with enough bass from the sub that I really didn't wanna bother getting rears.

Wouldn't be much in the way of photos, the door speakers are covered with stock covers, the sub is sitting in the boot in a box, the amp is connected up to the rear of the flip down middle seat and there's the head unit ofcourse, if you still want photos I can take some, but I don't think its anything special in the way of appearance.

linkems Collaborator

linkems

Posted
Posted
The sub is being bridged on the amp, the set up only has front speakers, no rears.

I know it seems incomplete that way, but its a very good set up and sounds clear with enough bass from the sub that I really didn't wanna bother getting rears.

Wouldn't be much in the way of photos, the door speakers are covered with stock covers, the sub is sitting in the boot in a box, the amp is connected up to the rear of the flip down middle seat and there's the head unit ofcourse, if you still want photos I can take some, but I don't think its anything special in the way of appearance.

Rears are just fillers and they days of 6x9s in the rears are long gone. Too much noise from the rear ends up ruining the sound quality. Most sound quality competition cars don't use rears and if they do it is a very faint sound stage should be coming from the front.

southlander Apprentice

southlander

Posted
Posted

no rears? thats crazy talk. a good set of rears gives balance to the system and what if you have passengers? dont be cheap. personally i like pioneer head units with kicker/ jl speakers and subs and jl amps. soundstream used to be great but have gone wayyyy downhill. i have always run 6" slpits in the front and rear and they've been awesome systems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...