Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after changing my timing belt to a gates one, the car struggles on idle. let me explain...

i believe my belt is done up too tight. (someone correct me if im wrong)

first cold start, will rev low, struggling to stay alive (sometimes dies), belt is cold, and the motor is working hard to keep the engine alive.

once the engine warms up, belt is slightly loosen and warm, and the idle returns back to normal.

i adjusted the aac valve on cold start to keep the engine running normal under 1000rpm instead of struggling at 400, but once the belt is warm, my idles revs is high above 1000rpm

i thought after a few k's she will settle in and be ok. however i have done 5000kms since then.

now, after getting a new clutch today, i said to the mech can you have a quick look at my idle.

he didnt look into the tension, however said the idle motor is not working. pulled the plug off and the was no change in the idle.

after searching this site, i can not find the "idle motor" plug thing. was hoping for a DIY fix. can someone help me out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/
Share on other sites

I would be more looking at whether the CAS was installed back in the right position after the belt swap or ensure that the timing belt was installed correctly and hasn't skipped a tooth.

How is the car driving other than the idle problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198143
Share on other sites

at first, it did have a missing tooth. however was rectified.

car drives normal, have hammered it and drives as per usual.

timing is set 15degrees.

what is the idle plug the mech speaks about?

Idle air valve and Auxiliary air valve are at the back of the plenum. The brown and the purple plugs. Cant remember which is which but those are the ones you want to be looking at.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198154
Share on other sites

Yeah you could give it a clean out. But usually when something goes wrong after a big job like a timing belt install, the problem usually lies with something to do with the install. The odds of the IAC starting to act up at the same time a timing belt was done is highly unlikely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198162
Share on other sites

at first it was installed incorrectly.

skipped 3teeth.

they gave it back to me like that. no torque, back firing, unable to rev, stalling. was horrible. return it and they solved it. however idle has not been good.

and i know those plugs now. ones that connect to the damn aac. idle motor?.. hahah

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198175
Share on other sites

at first it was installed incorrectly.

skipped 3teeth.

they gave it back to me like that. no torque, back firing, unable to rev, stalling. was horrible. return it and they solved it. however idle has not been good.

and i know those plugs now. ones that connect to the damn aac. idle motor?.. hahah

yeh thats those. Check the CAS like phil said first, coz that is ALWAYS a problem

If he said he has removed the idle plug and it had zero affect on the idle then you may want to see why.

Take the plug off and put your multimeter on it and check for any signal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198239
Share on other sites

The thing is if the car is stationary, idleing and warmed up, unplugging the plugs doesn't necessarily change anything.

The AAC can be unplugged without doing anything since there is no extra load on the engine from power steering etc that requires the AAC to open up.

The IAC can also be unplugged if the engine is at operating conditions without doing anything since once again there is no need for it to open up.

I don't remember if the stock ECU detects them some how being unplugged and changes anything though. Easy way to find out get some one with a stock ECU to unplug them but I think the same theory will apply.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198243
Share on other sites

The thing is if the car is stationary, idleing and warmed up, unplugging the plugs doesn't necessarily change anything.

The AAC can be unplugged without doing anything since there is no extra load on the engine from power steering etc that requires the AAC to open up.

The IAC can also be unplugged if the engine is at operating conditions without doing anything since once again there is no need for it to open up.

I don't remember if the stock ECU detects them some how being unplugged and changes anything though. Easy way to find out get some one with a stock ECU to unplug them but I think the same theory will apply.

Ah ok, I thought he meant the mechanic unplugged the IAC while the car was still warming up.

Have you yourself tried unplugging the IAC while the car is warming up or did you just take the mechanics word for it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198328
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...