Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Problems

Jaysiin

By Jaysiin,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jaysiin Enthusiast

Jaysiin

Posted
Posted

after changing my timing belt to a gates one, the car struggles on idle. let me explain...

i believe my belt is done up too tight. (someone correct me if im wrong)

first cold start, will rev low, struggling to stay alive (sometimes dies), belt is cold, and the motor is working hard to keep the engine alive.

once the engine warms up, belt is slightly loosen and warm, and the idle returns back to normal.

i adjusted the aac valve on cold start to keep the engine running normal under 1000rpm instead of struggling at 400, but once the belt is warm, my idles revs is high above 1000rpm

i thought after a few k's she will settle in and be ok. however i have done 5000kms since then.

now, after getting a new clutch today, i said to the mech can you have a quick look at my idle.

he didnt look into the tension, however said the idle motor is not working. pulled the plug off and the was no change in the idle.

after searching this site, i can not find the "idle motor" plug thing. was hoping for a DIY fix. can someone help me out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

I would be more looking at whether the CAS was installed back in the right position after the belt swap or ensure that the timing belt was installed correctly and hasn't skipped a tooth.

How is the car driving other than the idle problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198143
Share on other sites
Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
at first, it did have a missing tooth. however was rectified.

car drives normal, have hammered it and drives as per usual.

timing is set 15degrees.

what is the idle plug the mech speaks about?

Idle air valve and Auxiliary air valve are at the back of the plenum. The brown and the purple plugs. Cant remember which is which but those are the ones you want to be looking at.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198154
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Yeah you could give it a clean out. But usually when something goes wrong after a big job like a timing belt install, the problem usually lies with something to do with the install. The odds of the IAC starting to act up at the same time a timing belt was done is highly unlikely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198162
Share on other sites
Jaysiin Enthusiast

Jaysiin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

at first it was installed incorrectly.

skipped 3teeth.

they gave it back to me like that. no torque, back firing, unable to rev, stalling. was horrible. return it and they solved it. however idle has not been good.

and i know those plugs now. ones that connect to the damn aac. idle motor?.. hahah

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198175
Share on other sites
Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
at first it was installed incorrectly.

skipped 3teeth.

they gave it back to me like that. no torque, back firing, unable to rev, stalling. was horrible. return it and they solved it. however idle has not been good.

and i know those plugs now. ones that connect to the damn aac. idle motor?.. hahah

yeh thats those. Check the CAS like phil said first, coz that is ALWAYS a problem

If he said he has removed the idle plug and it had zero affect on the idle then you may want to see why.

Take the plug off and put your multimeter on it and check for any signal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198239
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

The thing is if the car is stationary, idleing and warmed up, unplugging the plugs doesn't necessarily change anything.

The AAC can be unplugged without doing anything since there is no extra load on the engine from power steering etc that requires the AAC to open up.

The IAC can also be unplugged if the engine is at operating conditions without doing anything since once again there is no need for it to open up.

I don't remember if the stock ECU detects them some how being unplugged and changes anything though. Easy way to find out get some one with a stock ECU to unplug them but I think the same theory will apply.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198243
Share on other sites
Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
The thing is if the car is stationary, idleing and warmed up, unplugging the plugs doesn't necessarily change anything.

The AAC can be unplugged without doing anything since there is no extra load on the engine from power steering etc that requires the AAC to open up.

The IAC can also be unplugged if the engine is at operating conditions without doing anything since once again there is no need for it to open up.

I don't remember if the stock ECU detects them some how being unplugged and changes anything though. Easy way to find out get some one with a stock ECU to unplug them but I think the same theory will apply.

Ah ok, I thought he meant the mechanic unplugged the IAC while the car was still warming up.

Have you yourself tried unplugging the IAC while the car is warming up or did you just take the mechanics word for it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317995-idle-problems/#findComment-5198328
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Ozdavroz
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...