Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title says.

Only replacing it 'cause I am doing a manual conversion. I've never driven the car with it in so can't guarantee anything. Money back if it doesn't work :)

Southern Sydney - If you want to organise freight to pick it up from my house, know yourself out. Otherwise pick up any evening.

Cheers,

Daewoo

Edited by Daewoo
I'll take it, pending the time to swing out there to pick it up! Wont be till June or July.

Probably won't be here that long...

I don't have any garageing... all work is done in the driveway, and I don't like the place looking like a wrecking yard... send me a PM about it if you like...

BTW - how freaking heavy are they... ditching that weight is a performance mod on it's own...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Probably won't be here that long...

I don't have any garageing... all work is done in the driveway, and I don't like the place looking like a wrecking yard... send me a PM about it if you like...

BTW - how freaking heavy are they... ditching that weight is a performance mod on it's own...

Cheers,

Daewoo

What year MR30 is this from? I'm after an 84/85 four speed auto and would gladly pick it up.

Pete.

What year MR30 is this from? I'm after an 84/85 four speed auto and would gladly pick it up.

Pete.

I've thought of another angle, even if this is a three speed it would be a good exchange unit to get shift mods done. I can't PM you (not enough posts), can you PM me?

Pete.

Peter - PM Sent.

It is a 4 speed i.e. has overdrive.

Cheers,

Darryl

Darryl,

That sounds great. I'll be in the metro area on Saturday (live in the Blue Mountains), please PM me where and when. If Saturday's no good, any time to suit you.

Pete.

  • 2 months later...

I realise this has already gone but have a general question...

Does anyone know if these 4 speed autos will bolt straight into an earlier series MR30 (to replace the 3 speed auto)?

JH

  • 2 weeks later...
I realise this has already gone but have a general question...

Does anyone know if these 4 speed autos will bolt straight into an earlier series MR30 (to replace the 3 speed auto)?

JH

Yes & no...

If you have the correct flex-plate, they will mate up to the engine no-problem.

BUT, the gearbox x-member is different - you'll need to remove the gussets in the transmission tunnel that provided mounting points for the 3-speed, and drill the floorpan to suit the bolt pattern of the 4-speed member. The correct shifter plate, tailshaft and console surround are also required. (Note that the spline on the extension housing for the tailshaft yoke is a different count to the 3N71B, and FSxx71x series manual boxes...)

Yes & no...

Thanks for the reply. More changes required than I first thought. Looks like all the way down the driveline (and maybe the diff too?).

It's probably more sensible for me to fit a 'younger' or reco 3sp auto trans.

JH

It's probably more sensible for me to fit a 'younger' or reco 3sp auto trans.

Depends on what you can get from the donor car... other than cutting out the gusset, and drilling the floor, if you are stripping a car that had a 4 speed, you should just grab everything, and you will have everything you need... The thing I would be most concerned about is whether the ECU is the same...

Cheers,

Daewoo

  • 3 weeks later...
If you have the correct flex-plate, they will mate up to the engine no-problem.

...The correct shifter plate, tailshaft and console surround are also required. (Note that the spline on the extension housing for the tailshaft yoke is a different count to the 3N71B, and FSxx71x series manual boxes...)

Depends on what you can get from the donor car... other than cutting out the gusset, and drilling the floor, if you are stripping a car that had a 4 speed, you should just grab everything, and you will have everything you need.

Thanks for the info. Don't have a donor car unfortunately so...

I'm looking for a flex-plate, tailshaft, shifter plate and console surround for series 2 R30 4 speed auto. Does anyone know if any R31 items will fit?

(So far have located 4N71b auto trans, cross-member and VL driveshaft).

JH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...