Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 Nissan Skyline Gts-t HCR32 with 186xxx kms

Asking $6500 as is!! Rego ends june 22

Reason for sale being that by the end of the year hopefully I will have invested in a business or the one I am currently running! + extra money for a holiday never hurt lol..

Mod list:

JJR dump pipe

HPI front pipe

Kakimoto regu 06&R catback

Highflow cat

3A racing air filter

Split fire coil packs

Nismo reinforced clutch pedal braket

Excedy heavy duty clutch

ISC N1 coilovers

Cusco rear strut brace (3way)

GTR front strut brace

Kazama tie rod ends

Cusco castor rods

R33 Front lca's

JJR upper camber arms (front)

Power spirit rear camber arms

Hicas lock bar installed and all hicas related line removed

Gramlights 57d 17x9 +22

Kumho ku36 235/45R17 front (200ks old)

Yokohama A.drive R1 235/45R17 rear

DBA cross drilled and slotted rotors front

DBA vented rotors rear

Bendix ultimate pads all round

Serviced every 5000kms using valvoline oil & ryco oil filter

X2 new drive shafts installed (around 200kms ago, will come with spare's)

82.xxx kms diff installed (around 200ks ago) which has been shimmed and topped up with Trust diff oil

Nismo oil filler cap

Nismo radiator cap

Nismo gear knob

JJR steering wheel

Sony old skool head deck

HID

SNC00275.jpg

SNC00283.jpg

Not much has been done engine wise, as main focus was on suspension, brakes and tyres! Located in Sydney

For more info shoot me a PM!

Cheers,

Pat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318743-hcr32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

1993 Nissan Skyline Gts-t HCR32 with 186xxx kms

Asking $6500 as is!! Rego ends june 22

Reason for sale being that by the end of the year hopefully I will have invested in a business or the one I am currently running! + extra money for a holiday never hurt lol..

Mod list:

JJR dump pipe

HPI front pipe

Kakimoto regu 06&R catback

Highflow cat

3A racing air filter

Split fire coil packs

Nismo reinforced clutch pedal braket

Excedy heavy duty clutch

ISC N1 coilovers

Cusco rear strut brace (3way)

GTR front strut brace

Kazama tie rod ends

Cusco castor rods

R33 Front lca's

JJR upper camber arms (front)

Power spirit rear camber arms

Hicas lock bar installed and all hicas related line removed

Gramlights 57d 17x9 +22

Kumho ku36 235/45R17 front (200ks old)

Yokohama A.drive R1 235/45R17 rear

DBA cross drilled and slotted rotors front

DBA vented rotors rear

Bendix ultimate pads all round

Serviced every 5000kms using valvoline oil & ryco oil filter

X2 new drive shafts installed (around 200kms ago, will come with spare's)

82.xxx kms diff installed (around 200ks ago) which has been shimmed and topped up with Trust diff oil

Nismo oil filler cap

Nismo radiator cap

Nismo gear knob

JJR steering wheel

Sony old skool head deck

HID

SNC00275.jpg

SNC00283.jpg

Not much has been done engine wise, as main focus was on suspension, brakes and tyres! Located in Sydney

For more info shoot me a PM!

Cheers,

Pat

nice car mann! gud luck with sale

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318743-hcr32-gts-t/#findComment-5214744
Share on other sites

R32Cookie - the car runs perfectly fine! the only thing that gets annoying is some clunking i get from the diff (must be because of the shims that are in there atm) and besides that the car never gave me any problems as i always took care of it =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318743-hcr32-gts-t/#findComment-5217318
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...