Jump to content
SAU Community

EOI - 10/1993 HCR32 R32 Nissan Skyline GTST Coupe


Recommended Posts

Hey Guys
Im thinking of selling my dedicated track car (Cannot be registered), and car trailer.
Thought Id put it up here 1st to give you guys first option, before advertising it elsewhere
 

Car is a 10/1993 Nissan Skyline HCR32 R32 GTST (Cannot be registered), Dedicated Track Car.
Interior stripped bar factory dash
RB20DET motor/5 Speed Manual
6 Point Bolt in “Bond” Roll Cage
Drivers Seat is a Racing bucket seat, standard passenger seat
5 Stud Hub conversion F/R, Intima Track/Race Pads, DBA T3 Club Spec vented rotors.
17 Inch Rims with 245/45/17 Nitto NT01 Semi Slicks, Rims are 8 inch front, 9 inch rear
Brake lines replaced with GKTeck Hard Lines
Custom Oil/Air Separator, with sump drain
5L custom Catch Can, with built in Radiator Overflow Tank
Boost Doc Cam Splash Plates
Brand New Pulsar G30-770 Turbo with custom tubular high mount exhaust manifold,
Cat removed, 3 inch exhaust with screamer pipe
45mm Turbosmart wastegate
GFB Electronic Boost Controller
Front facing plenum
Big Intercooler with R35 MAF
New Radiator and Thermo fan 
LS2 Coil Upgrade on custom rail
1000cc injectors/ 460L fuel pump direct wired to battery/running straight E85
Battery relocation behind passenger seat, Gel Battery, with isolation switch 
Nistune ECU (Needs to be retuned for new turbo kit, Around $800 for the tune)
Headlights replaced with custom Aluminium duct
and a shed of various spare parts hahaha
and a heap other things I cant think of right now

In Car video at Wakefield Park https://youtu.be/757a75mzIvI

Trailer is a Mario Car Trailer – Beaver Tail, 2T capacity, Tare 650KG, Carrying Capacity 1350KG.
Dont really have any pics of trailer bar the 2 attached lol


I was looking for around the $25K mark for the R32 and trailer, but happy to consider separating

Ranger may also be for sale for the right price, Never been offroad, 4wd only used for reversing the trailer on grass  lol

Not interested in trades.
Let me know if you want and more info or pics


 

skyline 1.jpg

skyline 2.jpg

skyline 3.jpg

skyline 4.jpg

IMG_6781.JPG

305226610_10225828877280920_1466377161861866459_n.jpg

306140574_10225828877360922_5292217067603932814_n.jpg

331447999_515359994040368_3142620520492758607_n.jpg

278863216_712943940137245_2119296580725046870_n (1).jpg

Trailer 1.jpg

Trailer 2.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...