Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I'm considering buying a fully reconditioned engine from BMI -aka- Brisbane Motor Imports.

http://www.brisbanemotorimports.com.au/

I have been communicating with them via e-mail and so far they seem pretty straight forward, knowledgable and friendly... The engine comes with a 12 month warranty (but I know that sometimes these warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on) and is a very good price.

Anyway, the reason for this thread is to ask whether anyone has dealt with or knows of someone who has dealt with these guys and can give me an idea of whether I should go ahead and order the engine.

I really don't wan't to spend thousands of my hard earned on a dodgy motor, freight it down to Canberra, bolt it all together and find out at the first turn of the key that it is f_cked and I cant get it replaced under warranty. :D

Opinions please! :P

Cheers

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319214-thinking-of-purchasing-an-engine/
Share on other sites

I agree that getting one locally would be better but I have tried that option and there arent any in or around the ACT.

The shortest wait on getting it rebuilt by a reputable shop here in Canberra is 2 months to start work on it, so completion would probably take 3 months or longer and I cant wait that long unfortunately :D

You're in Canberra? Go to Proengines first for a quote

Thanks, but no thanks... :rofl:

It seems I'll have to wait the 2 months for a reputable shop to start on it because I read the warranty terms that these guys sent me and there are holes in it big enough to drive a truck through... I dont think I'll risk freighting a motor from interstate.

Why not proengines?

Pm me if you like :P

The same story you hear about every workshop... Some people love a workshop and always recommend them, others wont touch them with a barge pole.

I have just seen and heard some things that make me think twice about getting them to do engine work on my car. :D

The same story you hear about every workshop... Some people love a workshop and always recommend them, others wont touch them with a barge pole.

I have just seen and heard some things that make me think twice about getting them to do engine work on my car. :wub:

Fair enough.

I can think of only 2 shops where ive heard nothing but good stories. Neither are near you though which is a shame

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...