Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Vehicle:

R32 GTS-T coupe

Motor:

RB25DET Neo (60,000 km)

Blitz return flow cooler (new)

Greddy recirculation valve (new)

High flow Catco catalytic converter (new)

Stock turbo, stock boost controller, stock dump pipe etc

Gearbox:

R34 5 speed manual (60,000 km)

Wheels/Brakes:

Volk GT-C, 18" rears with 235's and 17" fronts with 225's. Front tires near new, rear tires some wear.

R33 GTR Brembo discs and calipers (second hand), new pads, front discs machined, new rear disks

Body:

Full Origin bodykit

M-Spec bodykit included (complete kit, front bar, rear bar, rear pods and skirts)

Respray in Grigio Avalon (gunmetal grey from 2002 Lamborghini)......to me this is the best feature of the car, the colour's just awesome. It's so dark when there's not much light, but then such a bright silver in the full sun.

Clear indicators (Japanese)

35% tint on rear window and quarters

Sunroof

Nismo strut brace front

No brand strut brace rear

Rear spoiler deleted, holes welded up before respray

One minor dent on the edge of the bonnet that the guide coat didn't show up

Interior:

Stock interior with blue dash lights

VDO Boost, Oil pressure and Voltage guages in centre console

Alarm:

Full alarm & Immobiliser system (details will be given to the new owner)

History:

Vehicle was an automatic RB20DET vehicle in 2002 belonging to a chap in the northern suburbs. He decided to do a motor conversion and bought an R34 front cut with 60,000km on it. Put the motor, box, ECU into the 32 then stripped the car for painting. His missus then proceeded to have a baby, so the car sat in his shed till 2008 when I bought it off him. I have been working on it in my shed until two weeks ago when it was finally finished.....only my wife has just had a baby too! Hence why I'm putting it up for sale. I've tried to cart the bub around in it but it's pretty cramped with baby + wife + me, it's not really working.

Vehicle is fully engineered with the motor conversion, has had all the necessary emissions, noise and brake tests and passed them all. It's just been through Regency for a full vehicle inspection (required by Dept. Transport for the engine conversion not because of a defect issued) and it passed Regency except for some bushes needing replacement and the rear steering tie rods have a bit of play in them. It is booked into Ashley at Classic Performance at Hackham next week to get all issues sorted, then a follow up Regency visit. This car has nothing on it that is defectable, every modification has been checked at Regency and approved. Please note, the vehicle will not be actually sold until it has it's final inspection.

The car runs stock boost. I have put about 1500 km on it in the last two weeks since finishing it and I would anticipate another few hundred km before selling. It will be available for sale as soon as Ashley finishes putting the bushes in and it's been through Regency again.

All parts on the car that have brands listed are genuine brands, not copies.

Km on the car are 108,000, but it has the typical misaligned odometer digits which suggests that at some point the mileage has been wound back. I feel confident that the km on the motor/gearbox are legitimate, as it is a 2000 motor and was bought in 2002, 60,000km in two years is quite reasonable.

Please note, test pilots/joyriders will not be tolerated. If you are not a serious buyer don't bother ringing me. If you mistreat the car whilst test driving it you will be reported to the police. Sorry, but that's the way it goes.

Pictures:

See below (please note, the last picture I think I overexposed or something, as the colour's a bit washed out)

If you want any more pictures please just ask!! I am on the computer every couple of days, so can get more pictures up usually within two or three days.

Contact details:

Mob. 0434 924 001

or PM me on here

Price:

$16,000......this does not even remotely cover what I've spent on it in cash and time, but is a fair price for the vehicle.

I may consider a part trade for a cheaper, more family orientated car plus cash my way, but would prefer a straight sale.

post-52798-1272943228_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1272943379_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1272943552_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1272943671_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1272943823_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319251-r32-gts-t-engineered-rb25det-neo/
Share on other sites

Good luck with the sale mate,be sad to see it go!

Have witnessed this car being built from scratch and the hours of effort gone into it,one of the nicest 32s iv seen, :)

free bump

Good luck with the sale mate,be sad to see it go!

Have witnessed this car being built from scratch and the hours of effort gone into it,one of the nicest 32s iv seen, :)

free bump

Ok so here's my honest opinion with ur car sam!

I think you should keep it and here's my reasons

•it's probably one of the nicest looking 32s in your area,very unique with the kit and your own custom spray job

•even better you have fresh 34 motor and box in it with genuine kms on it and u know it's legit,and since uv done the work with it u know it's history,(simply u have a fresh engine that has boy been thrashed and is reliable)

•I have witnessed your countless hours of work on this car and seen the silent swearing going on inside ur head,but through all this uv produced a very nice car,and because u have done all the work yourself you know it's reliable and you also know it's not just a cheap respray..,if you put the hours of work you have done into a dollar figure is hate to l ow how much ud be loosing and just giving to someone else who probably won't appreciate at it near as much as you

•also from owning 2 32s a s15 and a 34 myself,I can tell you right now if you sell it you are going to want to buy another..sorry but once ya owned one ur always going to want another,as uv witnessed me do..and when you do buy another in a year or twos time ul look back and ask yourself why u gave this away!

•this car has soo much potential!!uv got the basis for so much more with this car,.don't stop now!!it's regency approved,and as you found out u can get almost anything engineered and it's not expensive!why not get this punching out some nice figures over the next few months/years,(I'm about to start on my 34,may aswell do it together,!!

•I could keep going with reasons,but!!!!after picking you up from dropping it off for tuning this morning,and seeing how much u enjoyed it,and the excitement u have to get it back and have it at it's current full potential I think ul agree parting with this is going to be very hard!mate it's a sick car and has a lot of potential still,and even when someone does come to u with the cash,think about the hours uv spent mate!!

Keep it!!!!!!

:P That's a whole heap of good reasons to keep it! Between that and the earful you gave me yesterday about keeping it.......and having my wife, dad, brother, sister, dog, cat etc tell me not to sell it I think I'll take your advice!!

Vehicle is removed from sale folks.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've just had a Nistune ECU and an in-tank Walbro fuel pump put in this and got it tuned up, it's making 193rwkw on 9psi with the most perfect AFR line I've ever seen! Thanks Ashley (Classic Performance, Hackham).

Driven it around for a couple of weeks and it's absolutely mad fun!

BUT........I do need to sell it. I just can't keep it, it just doesn't work with the kid! I need to get a ute for work to free up the family car for my wife, or get another family car for myself.

So the vehicle is relisted for sale

There is NOTHING to spend on this car, it is quick, straight, clean and registered with this motor. All the parts that Regency required to be replaced have been done with brand new parts.

So......buy me! (or at least the car anyway)

I don't have any good pics of the interior or motor but I'll get some this weekend and post them up as soon as I can.

It's just a standard interior, but with a triple gauge cluster where the heater controls used to be. The heater controls have been shifted down to the bottom and the head unit is in the middle. I've taken the cloth inserts off the doors and the back vinyl covers and there is a bit of glue still on there. I was going to put new inserts in but have not done so yet and probably won't before it's sold. The steering wheel is not too bad for a 32 wheel, some of the vinyl is a bit patch but it's pretty good overall.

Oh actually the sound system, I forgot to put those details!

ICE:

Kenwood USB compatible, bluetooth compatible CD player.

Pioneer 6" splits in the front with custom fibreglass tweeter mounts behind the mirror panel, painted the same colour as the car.

Sony 6" speakers in the back.

4 gauge power cable and earth run to the boot, with an anderson plug at the end of it.

I have an amplifier and slimline subwoofer to go in, the speakers are all wired up so they can be plugged either into the amplifier or just run off the head unit. Kinda hard to explain on the net, but it's so I can take the sub/amp out if I want the boot space or the weight gone but still have sound from the speakers.

Here are the interior and engine bay pictures as promised :)

One of the dash lights, one of the centre console, couple of the interior, the custom tweeter mounts and the engine bay (which I noticed needs cleaning badly).

The engine cover has been painted with a combination of silver plus the same grey as the car, as has the strut brace.

I've made the photo's quite small for the sake of a reasonable upload and thread viewing time, but if anyone wants higher resolution pictures please PM me your email address and I'll get them to you.

post-52798-1274651978_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1274651988_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1274652007_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1274652057_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1274652082_thumb.jpg

post-52798-1274652111_thumb.jpg

Hi Jeremy,

Thanks for the offer, I looked at the link and the car looks really nice, however it's probably not any more family friendly than the 32 I already have so I'll pass on it :)

Good luck with finding another 32.

Sparky

After driving the car around as a daily for the last two weeks I have become aware of two things which I need to mention.

1. The speedometer is optimistic, it reads 10% higher than actual speed. I believe this is due to the R34 gearbox/R32 speedometer combination.

2. With a heavy rain some water comes in around the passenger door seal at the top.

Bump and thank you for reading :blush:

  • 2 weeks later...

Couple of important things.

1. Vehicle had it's second inspection at Regency and is now completely passed. The bushes that needed replacing were done and every issue is sorted to Regency satisfaction. The car now has a 'mod plate' inside the door frame to prove the car is registered with the new motor. Additionally the registration papers also have the new motor details on them now.

2. I identified where the water leak was coming from and have fixed it.

Bump!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...