Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got sum 18inch rims with missmached bald tyres on them and ive got 4 practicly new 18inch tyres (all 235) that i wanna put on.

so i popped into a tyre shop on the way home and hey was saying its easy to change tyres on a non low profile wheel with a couple of tyre leavers and a mallet but wen it comes to 18s and so on you have to use their machine, and also to prevent scratching the rim.

i bought the rims 2nd hand and and they've got a fair amount of gutter rash already so im not too fussed about that. he quoted me $50 for 2, so if i can save a 50 ill do it myself or be happy to buy sum1 a 6pack or something instead.

so whos changed tyres themselves :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320389-taking-tyres-off-puttin-new-ones-on/
Share on other sites

indeed! I have fitted a few tyres myself and low profile tyres are a flamin mongrel even on a tyre machine..very tight, You need the machine especially to pull the tyre around under the lip when you put the tyre back on, pretty much have to stretch them on. I have seen 4wd tyres been done without a machine but it is pretty hard work.

Perhaps you could put a nice set of split rims on instead lol

+$50 is a bit rude just to swap them over, is he balancing them as well? Even still.. phwaar!

LOL @ Flamin Mongrel being the replacment word for CUN7

Edited by BANGN

yes it can be done with out the machine as i have done it quite a few times now

i have since bought a tyre machine though so if you want me to change them i can do it for you, but you have to take your old tyres away

im in high wycombe

0410 176 627

indeed! I have fitted a few tyres myself and low profile tyres are a flamin mongrel even on a tyre machine..very tight, You need the machine especially to pull the tyre around under the lip when you put the tyre back on, pretty much have to stretch them on. I have seen 4wd tyres been done without a machine but it is pretty hard work.

Perhaps you could put a nice set of split rims on instead lol

+$50 is a bit rude just to swap them over, is he balancing them as well? Even still.. phwaar!

LOL @ Flamin Mongrel being the replacment word for CUN7

I got done for 65buxs to get tyres changed...one rim has a slight buckle and the wrong tire, so i got them to swap it over with one of the tires on the car...was expecting around 30buxs. for sum reason it took them 40minutes and 65 of my dollars, wont name the shop in o'connor but wasnt too happy!

^ ^ Really?

They changed mine over and disposed of 'em for free last time, after I bought new tires and got 'em balanced. That bit was kinda expensive, but it rolls incredibly now =D

Yeah mate, but I didn't buy the tyres from them though, I bought them over East and still saved $150-$200

yeah he said that was to balance too, ill be keeping the old ones for burnouts as they've got a fair bit of meat left there just mismatched and camber wear.

hey rhys have u got a machine? ur probly round the corner from me ur in alexander heights too ay ?

dunno about other tyre shops but my dads tyrepower charges $5 per tyre to dispose of them as it costs a lot these days, have to use a licensed disposer n shit. if you buy new tyres the fitting, balancing and disposal of old tyres is all part of the cost of the new tyres.

cant remember what he charges for changeovers but when it comes to small jobs like that, cash is your friend

and the tyre shop was right, low profile tyres are a fair bit harder to change without the right machine. even with the right machine if they're upside-down rims, they're a prick to change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...