Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got sum 18inch rims with missmached bald tyres on them and ive got 4 practicly new 18inch tyres (all 235) that i wanna put on.

so i popped into a tyre shop on the way home and hey was saying its easy to change tyres on a non low profile wheel with a couple of tyre leavers and a mallet but wen it comes to 18s and so on you have to use their machine, and also to prevent scratching the rim.

i bought the rims 2nd hand and and they've got a fair amount of gutter rash already so im not too fussed about that. he quoted me $50 for 2, so if i can save a 50 ill do it myself or be happy to buy sum1 a 6pack or something instead.

so whos changed tyres themselves :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320389-taking-tyres-off-puttin-new-ones-on/
Share on other sites

indeed! I have fitted a few tyres myself and low profile tyres are a flamin mongrel even on a tyre machine..very tight, You need the machine especially to pull the tyre around under the lip when you put the tyre back on, pretty much have to stretch them on. I have seen 4wd tyres been done without a machine but it is pretty hard work.

Perhaps you could put a nice set of split rims on instead lol

+$50 is a bit rude just to swap them over, is he balancing them as well? Even still.. phwaar!

LOL @ Flamin Mongrel being the replacment word for CUN7

Edited by BANGN

yes it can be done with out the machine as i have done it quite a few times now

i have since bought a tyre machine though so if you want me to change them i can do it for you, but you have to take your old tyres away

im in high wycombe

0410 176 627

indeed! I have fitted a few tyres myself and low profile tyres are a flamin mongrel even on a tyre machine..very tight, You need the machine especially to pull the tyre around under the lip when you put the tyre back on, pretty much have to stretch them on. I have seen 4wd tyres been done without a machine but it is pretty hard work.

Perhaps you could put a nice set of split rims on instead lol

+$50 is a bit rude just to swap them over, is he balancing them as well? Even still.. phwaar!

LOL @ Flamin Mongrel being the replacment word for CUN7

I got done for 65buxs to get tyres changed...one rim has a slight buckle and the wrong tire, so i got them to swap it over with one of the tires on the car...was expecting around 30buxs. for sum reason it took them 40minutes and 65 of my dollars, wont name the shop in o'connor but wasnt too happy!

^ ^ Really?

They changed mine over and disposed of 'em for free last time, after I bought new tires and got 'em balanced. That bit was kinda expensive, but it rolls incredibly now =D

Yeah mate, but I didn't buy the tyres from them though, I bought them over East and still saved $150-$200

yeah he said that was to balance too, ill be keeping the old ones for burnouts as they've got a fair bit of meat left there just mismatched and camber wear.

hey rhys have u got a machine? ur probly round the corner from me ur in alexander heights too ay ?

dunno about other tyre shops but my dads tyrepower charges $5 per tyre to dispose of them as it costs a lot these days, have to use a licensed disposer n shit. if you buy new tyres the fitting, balancing and disposal of old tyres is all part of the cost of the new tyres.

cant remember what he charges for changeovers but when it comes to small jobs like that, cash is your friend

and the tyre shop was right, low profile tyres are a fair bit harder to change without the right machine. even with the right machine if they're upside-down rims, they're a prick to change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...