Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a 1996 R33 gtst, resently had a problem arure,

I'll try to describe it..

The car hits boost starts to pull then at higher revs sounds like it is goin but its not

pulling anywere near how it should..

The car has a boost tap but only running around 8psi atm.. fmic and cat back exhaust..

I tryed running a straight line just from the actator straight to the cooler pipe (same result) i then tryed swaping the a.f.m (still same) the car was serviced 2k ago, im quite sure all the clamps on the cooler are tite, i replaced the spark plugs yestarday and all coil packs seem to be in good order.. I hav also changed the b.o.v thinking that it could be leaking .. (still same)

So im quite confused as to wat the problem could be../???

I know its real hard to diagnose with out seeing the car,

but just thought id ask the question

Thanx for any advice you can offer :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320851-r33-s2-no-top-end-power/
Share on other sites

Yea i changed the fule filter 2k ago as well, and the car was running like it a couple days ago i changed and plugs and the coils seem to be fine not cracked or anything and its still running the same..??

also it seams just b4 in goes to hit boost it hesatates a bit, and again in higher revs more so under aggresive acceleration...???

Umm the plugs are ...... the bloke from aout barn recons there perfect for the rb alredy no need to re-gap them..?? im gunna change all the coils today as well c how we go..??

Another question iz there any advantage to moving the a.f.m to the cooler piping and having just a straight pipe of the frount of the turbo (all with starndard computer) ...???

re-gap to 0.8mm... if weaker coils, higher powered cars, also considering age..

it's a laugh if your getting technical advice from auto barn.. i would look at one of the sponsors on here to get your equipment.. (also for supporting the people that support you)

I recommend Kudos on here as he checked all info and gave reasons as to why choose different items... instead of just reading what the manual states..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

well today i pulled the fuel pump out seems to be in good working order, changed the coil paks, changed the plugs coulpe of days ago (gapped at 0.6mm) changed the air flow meter, checked all cooler clamps. changed the b.o.v just in case it was leaking... still same resault after all that ....???

Really running outa ideas...

Lol ahahah good point but im saying like no power dies in the ass bad! iv had a skyline 4 around 2 years i know how it was and how it should be lol.. i would say turbo yea but its not blowing any smoke and if u ease into it, it goes ok it when ur flat to the floor (to quike on the acceleratore) that it stuffs up..??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...