Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a 1996 R33 gtst, resently had a problem arure,

I'll try to describe it..

The car hits boost starts to pull then at higher revs sounds like it is goin but its not

pulling anywere near how it should..

The car has a boost tap but only running around 8psi atm.. fmic and cat back exhaust..

I tryed running a straight line just from the actator straight to the cooler pipe (same result) i then tryed swaping the a.f.m (still same) the car was serviced 2k ago, im quite sure all the clamps on the cooler are tite, i replaced the spark plugs yestarday and all coil packs seem to be in good order.. I hav also changed the b.o.v thinking that it could be leaking .. (still same)

So im quite confused as to wat the problem could be../???

I know its real hard to diagnose with out seeing the car,

but just thought id ask the question

Thanx for any advice you can offer :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320851-r33-s2-no-top-end-power/
Share on other sites

Yea i changed the fule filter 2k ago as well, and the car was running like it a couple days ago i changed and plugs and the coils seem to be fine not cracked or anything and its still running the same..??

also it seams just b4 in goes to hit boost it hesatates a bit, and again in higher revs more so under aggresive acceleration...???

Umm the plugs are ...... the bloke from aout barn recons there perfect for the rb alredy no need to re-gap them..?? im gunna change all the coils today as well c how we go..??

Another question iz there any advantage to moving the a.f.m to the cooler piping and having just a straight pipe of the frount of the turbo (all with starndard computer) ...???

re-gap to 0.8mm... if weaker coils, higher powered cars, also considering age..

it's a laugh if your getting technical advice from auto barn.. i would look at one of the sponsors on here to get your equipment.. (also for supporting the people that support you)

I recommend Kudos on here as he checked all info and gave reasons as to why choose different items... instead of just reading what the manual states..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

well today i pulled the fuel pump out seems to be in good working order, changed the coil paks, changed the plugs coulpe of days ago (gapped at 0.6mm) changed the air flow meter, checked all cooler clamps. changed the b.o.v just in case it was leaking... still same resault after all that ....???

Really running outa ideas...

Lol ahahah good point but im saying like no power dies in the ass bad! iv had a skyline 4 around 2 years i know how it was and how it should be lol.. i would say turbo yea but its not blowing any smoke and if u ease into it, it goes ok it when ur flat to the floor (to quike on the acceleratore) that it stuffs up..??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...