Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, pretty much know what I'm aiming for parts wise thanks guys. The bigger question is what's in it already? So much "stock" stuff that's modified, that I may not need injectors/turbo etc because they might already be in there. For all I know, at the moment I'm only being limited by my AFM and tune! (one can dream anyway)

3" inch front/dump is on the list though to bring the whole exhaust up to size

Edited by Isola
Yeah, pretty much know what I'm aiming for parts wise thanks guys. The bigger question is what's in it already? So much "stock" stuff that's modified, that I may not need injectors/turbo etc because they might already be in there. For all I know, at the moment I'm only being limited by my AFM and tune! (one can dream anyway)

3" inch front/dump is on the list though to bring the whole exhaust up to size

full 3" will be hot

and yeh you're right, your ecu could already be ROMed from jap for 1bar/fmic/zorst or similar

keen to see what it makes :P

full 3" will be hot

and yeh you're right, your ecu could already be ROMed from jap for 1bar/fmic/zorst or similar

keen to see what it makes :P

Trouble with thast is it is probably also tuned to run on 101 octane or higher, not the shite they serve us up here.

Yeah, pretty much know what I'm aiming for parts wise thanks guys. The bigger question is what's in it already? So much "stock" stuff that's modified, that I may not need injectors/turbo etc because they might already be in there. For all I know, at the moment I'm only being limited by my AFM and tune! (one can dream anyway)

3" inch front/dump is on the list though to bring the whole exhaust up to size

Just wait for some dyno day and jump in for a power run. Only cost like 50bucks for them instead of hiring a dyno (setup + run just for 1 car would be close to 1hr I would imagine, around 150/hr for 4wd dyno). And since 32 is just a fuse away from awd to rwd, I wouldnt be paying extra for awd at all.

Checking the turbo might be hard depending on how accessible they are but injectors should be easy. You can normally tell by the colour of them and jump on Nengun to check what size they are.

Andy: that 10kW is pretty subjective because temperature plays a bit part in dyno and every car is different (not really comparing apples with apples). Unless you got 2 dynos side by side and do the same car on the same day, the claim of gtr's awd power is higher than rwd mode power is quite hard to answer (due to attessa system).

Just for everyone's information, my car was tuned at Gavin Woods' using 4WD dyno and had 340awhp (end of august). But during the dyno day at EFI which was 2wd dyno, it only managed 330rwhp (21st november).

Andy: that 10kW is pretty subjective because temperature plays a bit part in dyno and every car is different (not really comparing apples with apples). Unless you got 2 dynos side by side and do the same car on the same day, the claim of gtr's awd power is higher than rwd mode power is quite hard to answer (due to attessa system).

I was talking about back to back runs on the same dyno with awd engaged vs disengaged, a friend of mine did it in Sydney and results were 10 to 15kw higher for rwd, which makes perfect sense as the AWD would rob some power.

depending where you go if you go toa place with dynopacks with the hubs it might be slightly more cause they have to take your wheels off but like sme places e.g. 999 i know that they have the dynodynamic (or what ever you call it) they have the rollers for all four wheels and i dont see how i would cost heaps more to just extend their ramps like 30cm or what ever so that your front wheels will sit on the rollers, its designed for that.

But im pretty sure power runs at 999 around 50-80 still even if its not a dyno day. but if you really want to find out why dot you just call them upand see how much a power run will cost ya.

I was talking about back to back runs on the same dyno with awd engaged vs disengaged, a friend of mine did it in Sydney and results were 10 to 15kw higher for rwd, which makes perfect sense as the AWD would rob some power.

Ok thats the first I've heard of and now I believe you. =P

I know it make sense but I've never actually know anyone that's done that before (running same car on same dyno on awd and rwd mode). Now you make me wonder how does the other awd car fair on the same test since they're dont have the same awd system (e.g. evo, wrx etc). But then again, loss gonna be different for all anyway so no point in trying to dig the facts out.

Ok thats the first I've heard of and now I believe you. =P

I know it make sense but I've never actually know anyone that's done that before (running same car on same dyno on awd and rwd mode). Now you make me wonder how does the other awd car fair on the same test since they're dont have the same awd system (e.g. evo, wrx etc). But then again, loss gonna be different for all anyway so no point in trying to dig the facts out.

im not 100% sure how all the awd systems works but the gearbox to the front drive shaft would still be attached to the front diff and still be turning it wouldnt it? just because you take out a fuse does it mean that the front diff disconnects or something?? to get a true reading of power at the rears wouldnt you need to take out the drive shaft to the front??

im not 100% sure how all the awd systems works but the gearbox to the front drive shaft would still be attached to the front diff and still be turning it wouldnt it? just because you take out a fuse does it mean that the front diff disconnects or something?? to get a true reading of power at the rears wouldnt you need to take out the drive shaft to the front??

Only the R33 and the R34 have a preload to the front in a r32 you can just pull the fuse and run true rwd with out hurting the Attessa clutch packs.

me too, because it's been running 12psi this whole time and we never knew. Now it's set up for 12/14 on the MBC. 14 seemed safe as we don't know what the turbo is.

Stop being a slack ass jew and take the heat shield off the f**ker!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...