Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My dad is selling his R34 GTR V-Spec

Completely stock except for a trust PEII catback (which we put on the car and stock exhaust can be included if the buyer wants it)

Full service history from Japan

41,xxx KM's

Immaculate condition

This car is religiously serviced with Mobil 1 and never ever thrashed

Asking: $51,000

Contact Michael on 0413113219

or

me via email on Matt dot Dellamalva at Gmail dot com

P5152931.jpg

P5152932.jpg

P5152933.jpg

P5152934.jpg

P5152935.jpg

P5152936.jpg

P5152937.jpg

P5152938.jpg

P5152939.jpg

P5152940.jpg

P5152941.jpg

P5152942.jpg

P5152945.jpg

P5152946.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321233-r34-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Nice Car

will have to wait till my V35 is sold, but a bit more than what i can spend

not to mention the travel SA from QLD

Free bump for Nice Car, i doubt you can import 44,000KM one with Log Books for this price now and in Bayside blue

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321233-r34-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-5385212
Share on other sites

"car is never ever thrashed" - heinous. Why did you bother buying one? I think this is highly unlikely champ =P

I know it's against the rules to respond with non-sale-related comments, but this needs to be done... Who cares what you think? He's trying to sell a car that has had a mature (like me) owner. I can categorically state that none of my (much more powerful) cars has been thrashed. Sure, I have given them the odd squirt, but I wouldn't class that as being thrashed like a lot of lesser cars are: having their necks wrung every time the owner gets behind the wheel.

Grow up, WhatBrake... If you genuinely have the performance, you generally find yourself with less to prove, let alone the need to drive like an idiot...

Oh yeah: free bump for a lovely GTR... :ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321233-r34-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-5387714
Share on other sites

"car is never ever thrashed" - heinous. Why did you bother buying one? I think this is highly unlikely champ =P

I didnt buy one

my 56 year old dad did

what you think you know but actually dont could fill a book...a big one

Grow up, WhatBrake... If you genuinely have the performance, you generally find yourself with less to prove, let alone the need to drive like an idiot...

precisely

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321233-r34-gtr-v-spec/#findComment-5387893
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...