Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Reason Psymin's car was doing 12s was it was wheelspinning most of the time. I'm sure it could do better with Micky Thompson Drag tyres and maybe a slightly different suspension set up. It was very fast around Pukekohe.

My S1 is lowered on Bilsteins, has heavy sway bars, adjustable camber, pineapples, semi slicks (now slicks) on the track and handles heaps better than stock but was still getting passed by little cars with half my horsepower on the track.

I enjoy having a completely stock looking wagon which will have 300 -400kw by the time I am finished. the only reason

I don't build a track car is I am too poor.

Kiwi:

Stereo is a must for any car of mine, as it stands I have 3 amps, 8 speakers and a 25 kilo sub (not including box). I am about to add 2 more subs. It would be the same for any car I buy, tracked or not and was factored into my thinking already :D

Kiwi:

"It was very fast around Pukekohe." Is Pukekohe a track in NZ? You wouldn't happen to know or have a link to track times? I'll google it :)

Not worried about the money coming back, modifying my car is my number 1 hobby, I'm happy to write it off! Looks like I have some more thinking to do :P

Cheers for all the opinions guys :)

Edited by stageaharts

Pukekohe used to be the main racetrack for Auckland. The Aussie supercars used to have a round there (its at a Hamilton Street circuit at the moment. Sorry I don't have any times - maybe contact Simon direct. There is no doubt that his car is fast by any standards (despite the modest 1/4 mile times) but it cost him megabucks and many hours to build.

  • 2 weeks later...
i've recently discovered how badly a stock C34 Stag (RS Four S) is in the twisties

sure it pulls out of corners quite nicely, but is hard to carry speed into, given the weight of the car (stock suspension didn't help!)

i was following a mate in his Caldina GT-T, and he left me for dead, although he just installed some nice Tein coilovers, whilst mine is stock in every way shape and form

imo, a Stag is not, and will not ever be a "bang for your buck" track/strip car

a unique, comfortable tourer? hells yes

with enough $'s, sure it could be competitive, but "bang for buck" you'll get better results elsewhere

good luck with it :)

The GT-Four N ST246 Caldina is even better again in terms of ability in the tight and twisty stuff. TRD got the suspension set-up sorted nicely, and the Torsen LSD helps too.

How much does a C34 RS Four S weight? The GT-Four N is listed at 1480-1490, but it doesn't feel that heavy at all.

They are rather heavy aren't they? I can see why the overall handling performance is down in comparision to the lighter and almost as powerful ST215. There's a reasonably big difference in power-to-weight ratio between the two, and the ST246. The biggest shame about the ST246 (all versions) is the bland tiptronic auto 'box. But it's acceptable enough for the daily urban grind and the additional suspension and drivetrain tweaks do make the N a hell of a lot of fun when you hit the twisty stuff.

I was in the same boat about 8 months ago...

My Stagea had fmic, 3" exhuast, apexi intake and raised the boost to 11-12psi and was fun for a little while but got over it quickly... Was tossing up spending cash on performance mods for such a large family car or get my misses a Forester and buy myself a toy...

So i sold my S1 C34 Stagea, got the misses a Forester for carting the kids around and brought myself a MA70 Supra with a fully forged motor, T04z 800hp turbo and 5 speed manual and havn't looked back :blink:

They are rather heavy aren't they? I can see why the overall handling performance is down in comparision to the lighter and almost as powerful ST215. There's a reasonably big difference in power-to-weight ratio between the two, and the ST246. The biggest shame about the ST246 (all versions) is the bland tiptronic auto 'box. But it's acceptable enough for the daily urban grind and the additional suspension and drivetrain tweaks do make the N a hell of a lot of fun when you hit the twisty stuff.

if the ST246 was available with a manual box, i'd be all over it like a rash!

mine ran 11.3 at 125mph with 417rwkw (on a 2wd dyno, though drags was done in 4wd), shitty 235 17' street tyres and full weight s1 with twin sunroofs, around the 1800kg+ mark with me in it. Definately had more in it at that power level, i was spinning 1st and start of 2nd. I was up with sports bikes on the street and pretty much unbeatable unless something else had 4wd as well. If you wanna go round corners etc buy a gtr or something, the stagea isnt gonna ever be a decent track car simple as that.

I had spent alot of cash and for one the stock gtr 5 speed wont handle it so i had a dogbox in it, which itself is not cheap at all.

If you want some cheap fun this is the way to go..

r32 gtst, stock rebuilt rb30 with 25 or 26 head, gt3076r or 35r and run 420rwhp or so all day everyday and its cheap as hell, reliable, and will run mid to low 11s easy with stock 5 speed box and they are light and handle well. Pretty bunky daily drivers though, im talking as a track fun car and have another daily driver vehicle to commute in.

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...