Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTST

For sale is my recently finished 33. I am upgrading my Race 33 and have rebuilt, inspected and/or serviced all the suspension and drive-line parts before transferring them into this road going shell. This car is perfect for Street and regular sprints. It is also perfect for drifting and registrable in QLD. Other states rules????

11052010_002.jpg

The engine

15052010.jpg

This engine has had 3 years service in the race car with new oil, Penrite SIN 10 every meeting and K&N oil filters for every 2nd meeting. An EMS 8860 computer is used to manage the engine. I have modified the plenulm for better flow, tested on a flow bench. A custom FMIC was made at the same time along with stainless piping. A PWR double pass radiator works fantastically well. Note the 3L sticker on it, it was put on by a friend so that the CAMS scruitneers would call it into question and has been a long standing joke. The engine has been striped, checked thouroughly, any worn parts replaced with new. This a fresh engine, i can talk with you at length on the strip down and freshen of this engine on request. There are plenty of pics etc.

Specs are as follows;

The head has been ported by Paul Gillbert, Gillberts Cylinder heads at Southport on the Gold Coast also with new valves, seats and guides.

Paul had Sure Cam in Sydney make up a pair of cams, 256 deg/ 9mm lift. Adj cam gears are used to set the cams up the specifications provided. The head has been sent back to Gillberts for servicing since being removed from the race car.

Std rods with 0.5mm ACL Forged RACE series pistons have been crack tested, washed and inspected, no ware detected and re-used.

The block has been washed, decked and honed since being taken out of the race car. Cometic .051" headgasket has been used.

Std crank which has been match ground to the mains and big-ends with the first under size ACL RACE series bearings. The crank has had a single key keyway modification eliminating the risk of a 1/2 moon Key from wearing loose.

The turbo and manifold was a HKS combo. The manifold is cast by HKS with a Garrett turbo commissioned by HKS. It was a T300, plain bearing oil cooled model. I had it checked out and was showing signs of distress. A Garrett BB GT3071R has been used to replace it as it has the closest specs to the old turbo. A TO4B front cover was used to match the original.

Old; T300, 52.3mm comp wheel,0.6 A/R, TO4B, 55.2, T78 turbine, 0.64A/R, 4 bolt ext gated.

New; GTBB3071R, 53.1mm comp wheel,0.6 A/R, TO4B, 56.5, T86 turbine, 0.64A/R, 4 bolt ext gated.

Fuel system uses the std in-tank pump to lift to a surge tank. twin 044 pumps supply the GTR inj in a custom rail at both ends. Return is from the center of the rail and uses an eddelbrock reg.

As the engine is still to be run in and tuned with the new turbo, I can't give current power out puts. In the past it has run 300 rwhp on 10 psi.

Gearbox has been rebuilt and serviced regularly by Hart Transmissions Brendale. Stock 5 speed.

R32 GTR diff also rebuilt by Hart Transmissions. The diff runs 4.3;1 gears and runs a higher pre-load tension, about 110lbs I think

Rear axels and hubs also R32GTR.

Suspension;

Tien HR R33 GTR shocks

Springs Front 12kg/mm, Rear 9kg/mm (as best we can measure that is)

Front has a re drilled cradle, modified adj lower control arms, adj caster & cms swaybar.

Rear has a modified cradle, adj camber arms and other adjustments for better traction. We have been constantly playing around with various components and found some good gains in lap times. I will spend a day at our local track with the new owner to go through what we have found works and how changes will affect the cars handling for different disciplines.

Although this drivetrain was in a prepared race shell, lap times are as follows.

Lakeside; 59.8 sec

Morgan Park 2.6km layout; 1.08:6

Gatton(old layout) 36.6 sec

Oakey: 40.1 sec

Noosa Hill: 64.5 sec

The link is th the last run at Noosa Hill Climb lat November the week before striping the car down.

http://www.vimeo.com/7700160

this link is to a clip at Oran where you can see while it may not have the power of the Unique Autosport 300zx, the suspension catches it back up.

http://www.vimeo.com/6942621

Brakes:

std calipers F&R

Hawk HT10 pads R&R

Penrite SIN 600 fluid

Front rotors DBA 4000

Rear Rotors std

Raer hand brake shoes custom reline specific for drifting

Body;

Seam welded engine bay

R33 GTST series 1

Frp front guards +50mm

Rear guards +50mm in steel

New paint

Full interior with flash leather bits

RSM gauges

Auto Meter boost gauge

The shell was extensively hail damaged some years ago in Lismore. I have pulled and reshaped the rear guards as mentioned. The roof has been repaired. the boot has been replaced with a as will the bonnet.

Located in Warwick Qld

Pm or respond here.

This will be an un-registered sale. Looking for $20,000.

Engine

19022010_007-1.jpg

Picture042.jpg

camera002.jpg

Suspension

IM000793.jpg

IM000782.jpg

Stich-welding

Picture021.jpg

Picture023.jpg

Picture034.jpg

Guards, roof & paint

Picture028.jpg

Picture036.jpg

Picture040.jpg

Picture051.jpg

Picture066.jpg

11052010_001.jpg

11052010_002.jpg

11052010_003.jpg

11052010_004.jpg

Interior

hailey006.jpg

hailey007.jpg

Edited by Noddy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321601-r33-gtst-daily-driver-track-ready/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Noosa Hill climb, 1st in class and new class record 63.61sec (over 2000cc resisted). 14th outright

Car comes with;

4, 17/9 Drifteks with federal 595 road tyres.

2, 17/9 & 17/9.5 with KUMHO V70A race rubber.

A days testing at Morgan Park to learn about the car and setups.

$20,000 firm.

Edited by Noddy
  • 2 weeks later...

Short Circuit Assn Super Sprint series round 2 at MorganPark, Circuit "B" (1.2km)

1st in class, 1st outright.

Lap times here.

http://www.mylaps.com/results/showrun.jsp?id=1617940

Edited by Noddy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...