Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst 4 Door Awd

KAMAKAZ performance
 Share

Recommended Posts

KAMAKAZ performance Contributor

KAMAKAZ performance

Posted
Posted

hey guys

done a bit of a search but didnt come up with a great deal of info

i have a r33 4 door i am droping a rb26 into and instead of modding the sump and a few other parts, i am running twin hks td05 turbos and the rb25 engine mounts hit the external gates where as the 26 ones dont

so i was thinking if i could use a rb26 running gear

gbox

crossmember

hubs

axles

driveshaft

i would have to check my 2way to see what ratio it is so it matches but would there be any probles with doing this? i would like to keep the abs bit if i cant thats no worries

i would like to use the r32 set up so if can switch between awd and rwd

any tips, ideas or advice from someone who has done it would be sweet

thankyou

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321614-r33-gtst-4-door-awd/
Share on other sites
4drlvr Proficient

4drlvr

Posted
Posted

Hi mate ive got an rb26dett forged in my 4 door 33 but to run the GTR Running gear as you want the existing tunnell wont fit. You could belt up the tunnell to make the GTR gearbox fit but i didnt go down that path. It was a lot of work the car was off the road for about 4 months, Looms had to be changed to support the twiin turbo setup and twin afms. I ran the r34 gtt gearbox instead of the r33 gtst gearbox.....lost of sideways action but if you find out anyway to get the GTR running gear aka gearbox/ front drive shafts etc let me know coz traction is a problem when you got that much power going to the rear wheels only!!! PM me if need a hand with anything :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...