Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheels Hitting Something! Advice?

unc33

By unc33,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

unc33 Contributor

unc33

Posted
Posted (edited)

ok so.. i bought a set of drift tecks for my 33 gts-t, was told they are r33 gts-t offset of +18 and are 9.5'' wide.. trouble is i cant get full lock when i turn the wheels.. as u can see in the picture the rims are rubbin on this part (part shown in picture) and i dont no wat to do as the ppl i bought them from wont take returns.. can i buy an aftermarket arm that is skinnier or sumfen to change out the one that is in the way? (the picture shown is the front right, you can see where the rim has been rubbing due to the shinny spot on the arm.. also what is the name of teh part that the rim is rubbin on??

thanx :)

post-67907-1274764098_thumb.jpg

Edited by unc33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322083-wheels-hitting-something-advice/
Share on other sites
blags Veteran

blags

Posted
Posted

hmm interesting, I was running 18x9 +10 for a long time and the only rubbing that occured was from the guards... your width brings the rim in 6mm and then the offset another 8mm. You could change your tyre size or you could try a 5mm or 10mm spacer

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

are you sure that is the offset of the rim? +18 should sit our well clear of that, even with being 9.5". i'd double check the offset of the wheels. it should be written on the back of 1 of the spokes.

you're only legal option is new wheels.

an illegal option is spacers

unc33 Contributor

unc33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i no its not the tyre rubbing because i took the rim off and the paint off that section of the rim is gone.. plus the sound from the rubbing is not rubber to metal. it is deffinately metal to metal.. i no that the wheel is a 18x9.5 with +18 offset.. i wana no if u can buy aftermarket parts of the arm that goes from the hub to the upper part of the suspension? spacers would be an option but the rim already sit on the edge of the gaurd and id prefer it if the rim was inside or flush with the gaurd..

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

if they are already sitting out near the edge of the guard then i think your only option will be different wheels. as far as i know there aren't really any aftermarket uprights available. there may be, but i'm not aware of any.

most people don't usually run 9.5" wide wheels on the front. generally they will only run 8's, or 9's at the most. there are a few running 9.5's with similar offset to you without issues though. that is why i asked if you were sure of the offset.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...