Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have got 3 RB26DETT heads sitting around the shed. all 3 are damaged but repairable, would suit machinist or someone in the trade who could repair them and make some money off them.

Head 1) Was brand new old stock that had been stting around since new. I bought it and then threw rod out side of block which damaged the combustion chamber a bit and broke the valves off. Most bits there for it.

Head 2) Head which is slightly warped. Needs straightening

Head 3) Head which has had different cams put in, the clearences for the cams wasnt set properly so it damaged the cam journels and the bering caps etc. Complete but needs line boring

Offers for all 3? or 1? I dont mind. If i get enough interest for parts i will part them out but i dont want to sell a couple little things as it will make it hard for the person who buys the lot.

Pair of Nismo engine mounts, used but still in good nick $150 pair

Tomei Sump baffle, used but was only in engine for a couple months, $150

Also, have got other r32gtr bits and pieces, std exhaust manifolds, heat guards, heaps of other little bits just ask.

Would prefer text or call as i am not on computer very often.

Michael 0438911374

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322118-rb26-heads-x3-damaged-offers/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

post-61423-1275776647_thumb.jpgpost-61423-1275776326_thumb.jpgpost-61423-1275776126_thumb.jpg

Do you have any pictures you can post up?

Head 1) Complete head, cams there. Cam bearing lobes are scratched a bit due to the clearences not being set properly or something like that. Needs line boring as the cam bearing caps must be too tight on the cams.

Head was meant to be reconditioned when i got the engine, looks very clean etc but needs reshimming after its line bored.

Head 2) Slightly warped but repairable. maybe 2 bent valves after problem with cam belt. missing 1 spring retainer etc but the valve is still in there. Pair of cams that came with that head but after the head is straightened it will need reshimming.

Head 3) Havent got photos of this one atm, It is bare head as i used all of the bits to put into another head i had but i have got nearly all of the bits there to go in it, has got cams to match it. Needs combustion chamber welding up and then will need assembling and re-shimming

Have got some shims there with the heads but generally i did an exchange with my head reconditioner as shims arent cheap when you buy 24 at a time.

Could use all 3 to make 2 good heads, sell one to cover your costs and still have spares left over to sell or keep should anything happen to yours.

I was going to rebuild them but i dont have the time as i have got too many other projects on the go and i want to clear some room for my new project.

As i am on satalite internet it takes forever to upload photos so i have posted a sample of what i have got

  • 4 weeks later...

post-61423-1277970054_thumb.jpg

$1000 firm for the whole 3, plus freight.

May seperate the heads if i get enough interest

still got all. Will take $900 for the 3 or $350/head

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
post-61423-1277970054_thumb.jpg

still got all. Will take $900 for the 3 or $350/head

Still got all 3 heads, sell all 3 for $600, need them gone as i need the room in the workshop.

Thats right, 3 heads for $600, build 1 or 2 out of the 3 and still have spares left over

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...