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94' R32 Gtr Alternator

GTRAAH

By GTRAAH,
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GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

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alternator has been like this for a year now It works but i find if i park and leave the reds on or im listeniing to music for lets say 30min-1hr i have new battery dry cell type. But i find that when i start the car and drive with the air con for instance im looking at the battery power and its at 12.2 v and i take my foot off accelerate it drops to 11.9 and i get a warning beep from the turbo timer it eventually rises to normal level i think around 12.7-12.9v but i think my alternator might be on its way out i heard it should sit stable at around 13v, and i should b able to have the music on for more then 2 hrs right before battery drains??? can i get a recoditioned alternator or get mine recond? and how much am i looking at?

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GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

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Actually this morning as im driving it was at 13.3 v stable i put the air con on and it dropped too 13v-13.2 it just goes up and down a few point depending, see if the lights are on stereo are on etc, it will be at around 12.8 is this normal?

Nigel Nichols Explorer

Nigel Nichols

Posted
Posted

Your alternator should be working between 13.8v to 14.3v to maintain the electrical load.

Sounds like the voltage regulator is on its way out.

Once the engine is running the battery is "not " running the electrical items. The alternator is meant to carry the entire electrcal load. It will replace the charge to the battery after startup or draw from the battery if electrical items were used while the engine wasn't running, but once battery is charged the alternator just delivers enough current to manage the load.

What is the part number of your alt. Is it a Hitachi or Mitsi branded model.

I rebuild them from home, "may" have some suitable parts

Nigel

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
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Your alternator should be working between 13.8v to 14.3v to maintain the electrical load.

Sounds like the voltage regulator is on its way out.

Once the engine is running the battery is "not " running the electrical items. The alternator is meant to carry the entire electrcal load. It will replace the charge to the battery after startup or draw from the battery if electrical items were used while the engine wasn't running, but once battery is charged the alternator just delivers enough current to manage the load.

What is the part number of your alt. Is it a Hitachi or Mitsi branded model.

I rebuild them from home, "may" have some suitable parts

Nigel

Is it visible from the engine bay? and what costs am i looking at?

GT32 Community Regular

GT32

Posted
Posted (edited)

GTRAAH, this happens to me as well. No matter how I drive, the voltage meter on my turbo timer won't go past 12.6-12.7, only time it ever goes past 13.0 is right after I cold start it then after a minute or so it drops back down to 12.6 again. Also if I leave the car parked for too long (eg. 2-3 weeks) without cranking it then my battery runs flat. If I listen to music for around 20mins without the car running then battery goes flat again. I've replaced the alternator twice already and have had to buy new batteries numerous times in the 4 and a half years I've owned it. The car's had this problem ever since day one and it's slowly driving me insane! :cool:

Edited by GT32
Nigel Nichols Explorer

Nigel Nichols

Posted
Posted
Is it visible from the engine bay? and what costs am i looking at?

Yeah there should be a label on it on the back/side area. Some are underneath. Might have to use a small mirror to spot it.

Cost depends on the alt model.

Also the part number will telle what amp the alt is.

You may need to use a 90amp model

Nigel

GT32 Community Regular

GT32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nigel, when I replaced my alternators I've always bought one off an RB20DET motor. However, I run an RB30E bottom end. Are the alternators across the entire RB-series of engines all rated at different amperage? Should I be using an alternator that was taken off an RB30 as opposed to one off an RB20? I've always wondered if that would make any difference in my circumstance...

Edited by GT32
Nigel Nichols Explorer

Nigel Nichols

Posted
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Nigel, when I replaced my alternators I've always bought one off an RB20DET motor. However, I run an RB30E bottom end. Are the alternators across the entire RB-series of engines all rated at different amperage? Should I be using an alternator that was taken off an RB30 as opposed to one off an RB20? I've always wondered if that would make any difference in my circumstance...

Some R31 Skyline RB20DET (red top engine) came with a 70amp. R32 RB20DETs should all have a 80amp. Then there is the 90amp used on R33's RB25 etc.

The thing is just because an alt came off a RB20DET engine doesn't mean it was the factory unit. Alt could have been swapped out at some stage.

In most cases the 70amp is fine unless you running some high power draw items, eg. big amp sounds etc. The 80 and 90 amp units will just cope better with the load.

You certainly do not have to match the alt to you RB30 block. But what I would suggest is getting the alt with the smaller pulley (69mm instead of the 73mm). That way the alt will be spun slightly faster. The alt in question would be the Nissan 23100-70T05 (Hitachi LR190-722) 90amp. It has the 8mm BAT bolt versus the 6mm on most others. Still a direct swap on all RB engines. You will just need to change the eyelet on the cable for the BAT terminal to 8mm.

I know of 17 different alternator factory fitted from R31 to R33 Skyline etc. Some made by Hitachi and others Mitsi. The odd Bosch on in Australia.

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm

Nigel

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
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Posted
Some R31 Skyline RB20DET (red top engine) came with a 70amp. R32 RB20DETs should all have a 80amp. Then there is the 90amp used on R33's RB25 etc.

The thing is just because an alt came off a RB20DET engine doesn't mean it was the factory unit. Alt could have been swapped out at some stage.

In most cases the 70amp is fine unless you running some high power draw items, eg. big amp sounds etc. The 80 and 90 amp units will just cope better with the load.

You certainly do not have to match the alt to you RB30 block. But what I would suggest is getting the alt with the smaller pulley (69mm instead of the 73mm). That way the alt will be spun slightly faster. The alt in question would be the Nissan 23100-70T05 (Hitachi LR190-722) 90amp. It has the 8mm BAT bolt versus the 6mm on most others. Still a direct swap on all RB engines. You will just need to change the eyelet on the cable for the BAT terminal to 8mm.

I know of 17 different alternator factory fitted from R31 to R33 Skyline etc. Some made by Hitachi and others Mitsi. The odd Bosch on in Australia.

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm

Nigel

Nigel where you at mate if your in sydney i might come for a drive so you can have a quick look at it?

Nigel Nichols Explorer

Nigel Nichols

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Posted
Nigel where you at mate if your in sydney i might come for a drive so you can have a quick look at it?

Hehehe sorry mate. I'm in Hamilton, New Zealand. If you can take some pics though and send them to [email protected]

Nigel

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