Jump to content
SAU Community

Tare

TurboDoseBro
 Share

Recommended Posts

TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, as most of you may know, on the registration sticker will have the word 'Tare' on it, followed by the weight of the vehicle (Obviously rounded off to the nearest 10).

Tare = The weight of a vehicle without cargo, passengers, etc.

From my experience, when i was looking for R32s (GTS-T), i always checked the registered tare out of curiosity, and this ranged from 1280 to 1380. According to http://www.motortraders.net/imports/home.asp it should be 1320. My questions are, is this number actually accurate? and why do they range so much?

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

the numbers vary because of different spec (also different publications may say different weight due to differing scale accuracy). for example in later model cars where airbags and abs are options you will be looking at a rather large weight difference between models with and without. also sunroofs will alter the weight of the car too. even the wheels you have on the car will alter the weight.

i would take those numbers as a rough guide. even if you put your car on a weigh bridge i wouldn't take that weight as being the exact weight of the car as there will be a margin of error. even a 1% error on something as heavy as a car can be 10 to 15kg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/#findComment-5275524
Share on other sites
TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah that's funny because my friend got an Impreza recently and according to Redbook (wouldn't put my life on it because look at the 0-100km/h time, obviously mistaken form a WRX, but it's rough figures) it's supposed to be 1150kg but his tare reads exactly 1000kg so that was an amazing variance. (Yes he has sunroof as well)

http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/detail...id=12905877E689

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/#findComment-5275777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • WMDC35
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...