Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, as most of you may know, on the registration sticker will have the word 'Tare' on it, followed by the weight of the vehicle (Obviously rounded off to the nearest 10).

Tare = The weight of a vehicle without cargo, passengers, etc.

From my experience, when i was looking for R32s (GTS-T), i always checked the registered tare out of curiosity, and this ranged from 1280 to 1380. According to http://www.motortraders.net/imports/home.asp it should be 1320. My questions are, is this number actually accurate? and why do they range so much?

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/
Share on other sites

the numbers vary because of different spec (also different publications may say different weight due to differing scale accuracy). for example in later model cars where airbags and abs are options you will be looking at a rather large weight difference between models with and without. also sunroofs will alter the weight of the car too. even the wheels you have on the car will alter the weight.

i would take those numbers as a rough guide. even if you put your car on a weigh bridge i wouldn't take that weight as being the exact weight of the car as there will be a margin of error. even a 1% error on something as heavy as a car can be 10 to 15kg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/#findComment-5275524
Share on other sites

Yeah that's funny because my friend got an Impreza recently and according to Redbook (wouldn't put my life on it because look at the 0-100km/h time, obviously mistaken form a WRX, but it's rough figures) it's supposed to be 1150kg but his tare reads exactly 1000kg so that was an amazing variance. (Yes he has sunroof as well)

http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/detail...id=12905877E689

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323611-tare/#findComment-5275777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
×
×
  • Create New...