Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

can anyone tell me what type of turbo the rb25det engines have? is it a t3 as i'm told? the reason i am asking is cause i plan to upgrade it, should i have it hi flowed? or just replace the entire unit with a t3/t4? has anyone done this before? and if so what hp gains should i expect?

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/
Share on other sites

I would think a high flow would easily achieve the sort of figures you are chasing:) if it is done properly.  I had an easy 200rwkw (around 350 odd bhp) with the stock turbo at 12.5lbs.  

what other mods do you have?

the mods that i have so far but have not installed yet are :-

1 3" cat back exhaust

2 field fuel controller, (does the same job as the apexi safc)

3 blitz dsbc boost controller

4 z32 afm

5 bosch rising rate fuel pressure regulator

suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-649326
Share on other sites

just a question for you, sorry about it beign off topic, but i hope youi can help..

when i got my car there was a cable comming from the computer with a switch on it.. either "boxer" or "normal". it said Field above it... is this what you have? what does it do.

i would love any feedback as i have had the car for 6months and not known what this does.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-649552
Share on other sites

the mods that i have so far but have not installed yet are :-

1  3" cat back exhaust

2  field fuel controller, (does the same job as the apexi safc)

3  blitz dsbc boost controller

4  z32 afm

5  bosch rising rate fuel pressure regulator

suggestions?

Intercooler will help alot

Upgrade your fuel pump

think about clutch, stock one can die at as little as 200rwkw

Full management would be a much better option than a fuel controller - controlling ignition is pretty important.

Dump and front pipe, you need to get all the restrictions out of the exhaust side, and get rid of the cat too (as long as you wont get in trouble:))

Also, for the power figure you are looking at, it could be a bit risky to run the stock injectors. I know alot of people do still use them, albeit stretched by the fuel pressure reg, but you run a real risk of detonation, and a set of injectors costs alot less than a full rebuild.

should get you there.

Anybody else think of anything I missed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-649719
Share on other sites

i have enquired about a hiflow at GCG, i was quoted $1950 for Stage 1.

for that money, id be seriously considering a low km HKS 2530.

a brand new 2530 will cost you around $2500 delivered from www.greenline.jp and it'll include all the necessary bits and pieces and probably a HKS sticker too :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-650263
Share on other sites

just a question for you, sorry about it beign off topic, but i hope youi can help..

when i got my car there was a cable comming from the computer with a switch on it.. either "boxer" or "normal".  it said Field above it... is this what you have? what does it do.

i would love any feedback as i have had the car for 6months and not known what this does.

thanks

the field controller i have is a unit in which you have to install into the wiring loom,, its a separate unit with adjustments and a digital display that reads your 1/4 ille times, your true speed, your true rpm, your a/f ratio and your tranny shift points (if its auto) and a host of other things,, the unit is marked "field hyper-r boxer series", is this whats on the other end of youe cable?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-650625
Share on other sites

Intercooler will help alot

Upgrade your fuel pump

think about clutch, stock one can die at as little as 200rwkw

Full management would be a much better option than a fuel controller - controlling ignition is pretty important.

Dump and front pipe, you need to get all the restrictions out of the exhaust side, and get rid of the cat too (as long as you wont get in trouble:))

Also, for the power figure you are looking at, it could be a bit risky to run the stock injectors. I know alot of people do still use them, albeit stretched by the fuel pressure reg, but you run a real risk of detonation, and a set of injectors costs alot less than a full rebuild.

should get you there.  

Anybody else think of anything I missed?

intercooler----i have at my disposal a toyota supra fmic,, its not as big nor efficient as the gtr one but i guess it will have to work till i can get a real fmic

fuel pump-------i have a toyota twin turbo fuel pump

clutch-----full act clutch and pressure plate (6 puck copper/ceramic)

management-----i am trying to get my hands on a power fc

dump pipe-----this depends on what turbo i use,, right now its stock, which leads me to my first question,, that type of turbo is this? is it a t3? is it a t25? what is it? i have no idea.

injectors------ havent yet thought about these,, but i will see if i can get my hands on some 550cc's,, thanx for the replies guys and could anyone please tell me what type of turbo i have? its a stock series 1 r33 rb25det thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-650655
Share on other sites

Intercooler will help alot

Upgrade your fuel pump

think about clutch, stock one can die at as little as 200rwkw

Full management would be a much better option than a fuel controller - controlling ignition is pretty important.

Dump and front pipe, you need to get all the restrictions out of the exhaust side, and get rid of the cat too (as long as you wont get in trouble:))

Also, for the power figure you are looking at, it could be a bit risky to run the stock injectors. I know alot of people do still use them, albeit stretched by the fuel pressure reg, but you run a real risk of detonation, and a set of injectors costs alot less than a full rebuild.

should get you there.  

cat---- as for this,,, hmmmm well lets say that i havent had one of those for years now lol

Anybody else think of anything I missed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-650658
Share on other sites

the stock nissan turbo is neither a T25 or a T3, its nissans own.

You can get bolt on dump and front pipes from manufacturers such as HKS, that seperate the wastegate and turbine outlet pipes. fortuneately the nissan outlet is the same as a GT25 turbo, so no probs with compatability if you do go a GT2530 - which would be my first option before a high flow, unless of course you are doing your own?

Something else that wouldnt hurt, a good pod, but make sure you have a partition and CAI. The partition and CAI are really easy and cheap mods and make a world of difference on and off boost when the days start warming up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32367-rb25-turbo-specs/#findComment-650759
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...