Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: R34 GTT Manual

Location: QLD: Brisbane

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: too many cars

Asking Price: 21500

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: 0402406938

Extra Information:

it is time to sell my daily ride its a 1999 r34 GTT 5 Speed with some tastey mods.

this is a very reliable car in great condidtion with genuine k's mostly highway driving (170,000ks) first to inspect will not be dissapointed

Engine

full 3" Exhaust

Pod filter

Hybrid Front Mount

Blitz i-colour

Short Sift kit

Suspension

BC Racing Coilovers only 4000k's old

urathane castor rod bushes

DTM Rush wheels (very light) 18x9.5 rears and 18x8.5 fronts with Kumho ku31's

Interior

JVC DVD MP3 player with 3inch screen

LCD Screen In visors

4 channel Amp

12 Inch sub

colour Matched door inserts

Exterior

Full Impul bodykit

HID Head lights

Pictures

IMG_1300.jpg

IMG_1303-1.jpg

IMG_1301.jpg

IMG_1304.jpg

IMG_0401.jpg

IMG_0402.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323733-r34-gtt-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...