Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently just bought a 12" Alpine Type S sub (SWS-1223D)

Now, I need to buy an amp for it.

Its rated at

900W peak and 300W RMS

Impedance: 2ohms + 2ohms

So, being a noob and all, I needa know what exactly I need to look for in an amp. All I know so far is to look for a monoblock amp. What sort of power should I be looking for that would be suitable for this sub?

A friend of mine said its better to overpower your sub rather than underpower it?

Any help would be much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323805-amplifier-selection/
Share on other sites

I've got that same sub in my complete Alpine R series set up but im running it all on the one amp crossed over, the amp im using is MRP-F600 which is 1320W max.

Hope that info is at all helpful, but im sure that people with a lot more experience will give you more info on a proper mono amp suggestion, just thought the 1320W Max spec would help with an indication of how overpowering is what they did with mine.

are you brand loyal ?

you don't need a mono, you can use a 1,2,4 channel amp depending on the amps load handling, I use 4 channel bridged x2 into a 1 ohm load on my subs but only to reuse some old stuff I had lying around until sponsors supply the amps in my car

too much power is better then not enough its called "headroom" more headroom less distortion, in the right sub box of course

but some amps can hammer your charging system bad, so you need to take that into account as well ?

do you like music loud ?

what kind of music?

do you plan on competing in SQ or SQL, testing ? sound offs ?

do you want a show off amp or hidden?

what kinda head unit do you have ? does it have outputs for sub x over?

to tell you the right thing, you have to take this and more into consideration to make the right decision ?

are you brand loyal ?

you don't need a mono, you can use a 1,2,4 channel amp depending on the amps load handling, I use 4 channel bridged x2 into a 1 ohm load on my subs but only to reuse some old stuff I had lying around until sponsors supply the amps in my car

too much power is better then not enough its called "headroom" more headroom less distortion, in the right sub box of course

but some amps can hammer your charging system bad, so you need to take that into account as well ?

do you like music loud ?

what kind of music?

do you plan on competing in SQ or SQL, testing ? sound offs ?

do you want a show off amp or hidden?

what kinda head unit do you have ? does it have outputs for sub x over?

to tell you the right thing, you have to take this and more into consideration to make the right decision ?

yea loud music is nice, well Id like the option of having it fairly loud.

I listen to pretty much everything from heavy metal to rnb to trance.

I dont plan on entering competitions, this is just for my enjoyment :thumbsup:

not too fussed about showing the amp off, pretty sure its just gona be attached to a box sitting in my boot

I have an alpine CDA 9886, http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/doc...OM_CDA-9886.PDF thats the owners manual, it has an extra sub output thingo.

lastly, I typically stick more known brands, but dunno if Id say Im loyal to any in particular

a reasonable brand 600w mono amp should do for your type-s. But if you can, id suggest you get something around 1000w and run it around 400w so your not stressing the amp so much plus you can always upgrade your sub in the future and the amp will still be able to handle the new one giving that its only a little bit more powerfull.

yea loud music is nice, well Id like the option of having it fairly loud.

I listen to pretty much everything from heavy metal to rnb to trance.

I dont plan on entering competitions, this is just for my enjoyment :P

not too fussed about showing the amp off, pretty sure its just gona be attached to a box sitting in my boot

I have an alpine CDA 9886, http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/doc...OM_CDA-9886.PDF thats the owners manual, it has an extra sub output thingo.

lastly, I typically stick more known brands, but dunno if Id say Im loyal to any in particular

what car is it going in ?

how much room do you care to waste, spare tyre intacted still ?

what car is it going in ?

how much room do you care to waste, spare tyre intacted still ?

going in an r33 so the boot space is already pretty limited lol

already got the sub and box and thats gonna take up a fair chunk of the space. I was told I can mount another amp on top of my other one which is near the battery or I can just put it on the back of the box.

going in an r33 so the boot space is already pretty limited lol

already got the sub and box and thats gonna take up a fair chunk of the space. I was told I can mount another amp on top of my other one which is near the battery or I can just put it on the back of the box.

I couldnt edit this so Ill just add onto it here...

forgot to mention that the spare wheel is still there and will stay, mainly cause my dad is a bit of a safety nut and will complain if I take it out lol

he's still confused as to why I had to go buy a skyline hoon-mobil haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...