Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I sold my 180SX without the WORK VSKF rims and Rays locknuts and have gone to an econobox so these are now are up for grabs;

Purchased brand new from WORK - Includes the WORK centre caps and WORK tyre valve caps. The colour is officially called BKB Background Burning - Noobs will call them Shadow Chrome. These will look sick on any Japanese Import. They aren't the crappy shiny chrome colour.

Work VS-KF - pcd 5x114.3 official specs;

18x9" Big Caliper R Disk +21D Offset 70mm Dish Front

Federal Performance SS595 215x40xZR18 85W Tyres - Tyres have wear as pictured on the outer edges.

18x9.5" Deep Rim O Disk +26C Offset 95mm Dish Rear

No tyres on this rear pair.

Great offset - you can see the pics below of how they sit before and after camber arms dialled in. These easily clear R34 front brakes, and R32 GTR rear brakes as I had these on my 180.

You will get;

4 x VSKF rims

2 x mounted Federal tyres

4 x generic plastic centre ring locators (though not necessary to install - on some cars they are required)

2 x 5mm slip on spacers (I never used these I had them from another car but have no need for them

Complete set of black short style Rays locknuts

$2500 not negotiable.

I am happy to sell the Rays locknuts seperately for $80 - Excellent investment if you don't want your wheels stolen. Comes with the factory code in case you lose your locknut unlocker. (There are 6 locknut styles from the Rays factory possible) These are super lightweight and are the short style version - has some slight wear from being undone by the brace otherwise perfect. These are the 1.25 pitch type suitable for most Japanese imports - I know that they will fit import Nissans, if you are unsure undo one of your wheel nuts and check that it says 1.25 on it.

Test fittings are not allowed - I'm not going to sit around all day whilst you try to fit these to your car. If you know anything about decent classy rims from Jap Land you won't sit around thinking about it.

Not interested in swaps of any kind - Cash sale only.

Meetup at Brisbane Southside - Juzzie - 0411 437 937 Call between 9am and 11pm.

post-22121-1275918920_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918925_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918931_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918935_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918939_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918947_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918954_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918960_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918967_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918975_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918982_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918987_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918991_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275918998_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275919005_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275919011_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275919015_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275919021_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275919027_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275919033_thumb.jpg

post-22121-1275919038_thumb.jpg

Can't edit the original topic - Please note I'm not interested in swaps, cash sale only

For those not wanting a pickup, I'll need an exact post code and you'll also need to state whether you would like insurance or not. If you don't want the tyres it will be cheaper to send, also the sale price without shipping (also for local pickup) will be;

$2400 without tyres

$2300 just for the wheels themselves (not including any of the other items - the locknuts, spacers or the centre ring locators)

My sending postcode will be 4109 if you want to try your own quotes

Current highest offer is $95, will take $110 instantly - If not whoever offers the highest by Sunday night will have them.

These cost around $180 through Greenline without shipping.

in that case they can have them.

cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Three offers received on the rims only for $2000, one offer for $2100. Whoever has the highest offer by the end of the month, or whoever pays $2300 will get the rims instantly.

It is tax refund time, do not miss out!

  • 4 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...