Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts25t Running Like S*%t After Service

lilpeddie
 Share

Recommended Posts

lilpeddie Newbie

lilpeddie

Posted
Posted

being the idiot that i am i took my car in for servicing to the only place i could get it done in the time frame i had kmart tyre an auto !! of all places

anyway not thinking much of it i drove here there an everyware (about 100k) and noticed as i got home the oil pressure was very high when i turned it off i herd a poping sound after letting it cool down the oil was past the notch on the dipstick

now its tapping and sluggish after getting the level right

so i need to know : will overfulling oil destroy it or just do enough damage for it to eventually destroy itself?

:at the back of the rocker cover ive noitced fresh oil is this normal or is the person who told me it is an idiot?

:does anybody know a mechanic north of perth who knows what theyre on about ie a specialist ?

ANY advice / input is much apreciated :laugh:

has anyone had this happen to them?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

how much over the full line was the oil? if it was only 2mm or so then that's fine. if you were to start the car, let it run for a few seconds and then turn it off and check the oil level you would find that it would probably be pretty close to spot on. it isn't until all the oil drains back out of the head that it will actually go above the line.

as for oil at the back of the rocker cover, it is common for them to leak from there. it may just be that you hadn't noticed it before hand.

the only thing to really worry about is the weight of the oil used. that is something you need to find out. too thin or too thick could cause issues. if the weight of the oil that they used is ok then any noise you are hearing may have absolutely nothing to do with what they have done and may be purely coincidence. hard to say unless you know all the facts.

as far as servicing a skyline goes, for things like an oil change they aren't any more special than any other car. as long as a good oil was used and it's the right sort of weight then it shouldn't really matter who you take it to.

lilpeddie Newbie

lilpeddie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it was almost at the second notch

yeah i went back and they changed the oil after ringing someone who aparantly knows do you know what weight oil it needs

ok so the whole oil issue aside do you know of a reliable place to take it ? i need to get it looked at because something isnt right aye

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...