Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If it's rated AC only then no it probably wont work..

Just call Ray Hall (vi-pec) in Qld and get him to overnite the big valve to you.

Then post up the part number for mee... he he!

Cheers

Justin

PS who's tuning your vi-pec in tas???

If it's rated AC only then no it probably wont work..

Just call Ray Hall (vi-pec) in Qld and get him to overnite the big valve to you.

Then post up the part number for mee... he he!

Cheers

Justin

PS who's tuning your vi-pec in tas???

Ok so I ray Ray Hall and have the part numbers and prices.

Small mac valve - 35A-ACR-DDBROBA --- $105 plus gst

Large mac Valve - 225B-551BA ----------$265 plus gst

Seems pretty dam expensive especialy after I bought the small one off ebay for $12.50 with $3 postage.

Can anyone steer me in the right direction to buy one of these off a wholesaler, or even another type of new valve that will run twin wastegates?

Cheers

The picture supplied by Vipec web site actually states Small mac valve as 35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA

This is the information I got from the MAC valve distributor:

Small -

"Your price for 35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA MOD T65C - $72.75"

Big -

"Valve is a 250B valve….. but it is a seriously big unit.

250B-551BA

$159.06 + GST ex-stock!"

I'll throw that number you got from ray with the distributor and see what he says.

Ok so I ray Ray Hall and have the part numbers and prices.

Small mac valve - 35A-ACR-DDBROBA --- $105 plus gst

Large mac Valve - 225B-551BA ----------$265 plus gst

Seems pretty dam expensive especialy after I bought the small one off ebay for $12.50 with $3 postage.

Can anyone steer me in the right direction to buy one of these off a wholesaler, or even another type of new valve that will run twin wastegates?

Cheers

Edited by s2d4
The picture supplied by Vipec web site actually states Small mac valve as 35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA

This is the information I got from the MAC valve distributor:

Small -

"Your price for 35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA MOD T65C - $72.75"

Big -

"Valve is a 250B valve….. but it is a seriously big unit.

250B-551BA

$159.06 + GST ex-stock!"

I'll throw that number you got from ray with the distributor and see what he says.

I just rang around and I can get one made up an a air supply shop for $111.

Thats with the part number I got off ray, the distrubuter in perth that I rang didnt have them in stock but he can make me one up.

Hopefully Its the right part number though as its different to the one you just stated,

The number for the guy in perth I called is 0893615677

$111 bucks is alot better that $265 And thats with the number Ray gave me so Im hoping it should be right

Sweet... I'm on the other side of the world (working in Bahammas right now) so I'll get my distributor on it.

Thanks for the info guys...

Justin

This is what the distributor said about the part number provided by ray for the small one (35A series):

"Not really, as the ACR is a manifold mounted (base mounted) unit."

As for the big one, the distributor said

"As is the 250 series is the base mounted model of the 225 series"

So Ray is using the base mounted versions for big and small. I am not sure what base mount actually means though.

This what the distributor recommends:

"I still think best valve for your application is the 117B!!! as previously quoted."

Let me guess, you spoke to Dan at pneumatic solutions?

Which air supply shop is making the 225B for you?

EDIT Apparently base mounted means this.

mm5xfs.jpg

I just rang around and I can get one made up an a air supply shop for $111.

Thats with the part number I got off ray, the distrubuter in perth that I rang didnt have them in stock but he can make me one up.

Hopefully Its the right part number though as its different to the one you just stated,

Edited by s2d4

Further comments by the distributor:

"The 117B is not better, just smaller and lighter, twice the flow rate of the 35A, where as the 225B is almost three times the flow rate of the 35A.

With the base mounted version you need to buy base as well, not really practical for a stand alone inline valve. More used for multiple valve applications!!

There are other ways we can go, that are still smaller than these with higher flow rates of the 35A"

Further comments by the distributor:

"The 117B is not better, just smaller and lighter, twice the flow rate of the 35A, where as the 225B is almost three times the flow rate of the 35A.

With the base mounted version you need to buy base as well, not really practical for a stand alone inline valve. More used for multiple valve applications!!

There are other ways we can go, that are still smaller than these with higher flow rates of the 35A"

So the 117b is ok to use with twin wastegates then? I might ring the guy back and see if he can do a price on the 117b?

2gsgw1l.jpg

Starting from left to right, 35A, 117B, then something slightly larger than the 225/250 series

sqmm1t.jpg

117B with the required fittings, it's about the same size as the Apexi AVCR Boost Solenoid, Nothing crazy like the 225/250 series and has double the flow of the 35A valve. It didn't have the labels coz they didn't have one in stock but stored the solenoid and the valves so it was made up in less than a minute.

Total price was just shy of 80 including GST.

legend.

Thanks buddy

Edited by s2d4
2gsgw1l.jpg

Starting from left to right, 35A, 117B, then something slightly larger than the 225/250 series

sqmm1t.jpg

117B with the required fittings, it's about the same size as the Apexi AVCR Boost Solenoid, Nothing crazy like the 225/250 series and has double the flow of the 35A valve. It didn't have the labels coz they didn't have one in stock but stored the solenoid and the valves so it was made up in less than a minute.

Total price was just shy of 80 including GST.

Good work mate, just the info i was after!

Was that from pneumatic solutions by the way?

if not can you tell me where so I can order one?

Flow rate the may not be the issue... You don't really need to bleed that much volume of air off to maintain constant boost pressure.

Which valve has the greatest capacity for duty cycle? eg open and close the fastest?

Cheers

Justin

Well, 35A is 6ms, 117B is 7ms and the 225/250 is 15ms to energise.

I assumed that is because of the flow rate required for twin waste gates as there wouldn't be a point for Ray Hall to go bigger if its just the solenoid.

Flow rate the may not be the issue... You don't really need to bleed that much volume of air off to maintain constant boost pressure.

Which valve has the greatest capacity for duty cycle? eg open and close the fastest?

Cheers

Justin

Edited by s2d4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...