Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Ever since I got a sound system installed, my car has troubles starting. It sounds like it's struggles to ignite. After 2-3 seconds trying to start and seems to work as usual. I have this inline fuse and volt meter that sits near the car battery to the boot reading at 12.6V.

What could be the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324600-car-starting-problems/
Share on other sites

I ended up buying a new battery as the old one from Japan died. It appears that the Blue 12V antenna booster wire had been spliced to the amp. I think this is the problem, however, the sub and amp seems to turn off when ignition is off. I'll re-wire that one to Blue/White and see what happens. Other than that, I can't see anything out of the ordinary. I also removed that inline volt meter/fuse box under the bonnet with a standard fuse box with 100A fuse.

Edited by theponyremark

step away from the car, you really don't have a clue , who install the stuff ? you void warranty on install by hacking someone elses work?

the volt gauge on the battery has to be wired to shut off with the car,

the factory jap battery is worthless

the extra current from amps kills the little battery quickly

and a bigger fuse doesn't fix problems with wiring.

and last but not least the colder weather reduces the amount of AMPS the battery can provide, "CCA" Cold cranking amps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...