Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

update, dunno why, not really much of a build thread person, but getting comments on it gives some motorvation.

Also got "too many projects syndrome"

Thanks to buying a dirtbike, a dr30 and a chev nova on this years california trip.

plus genral living, enjoying life and trying to save to build some units all adds up to doing sweet f**k all on the ceff :)

Still sorting out shit, indicators work now, fixed a wiring issue that was causing a flat battery, radiator finally died (it was the same one as it had when it intially got imported)

modified and fixed the drivers seat rail, new catchcan mounting.

heaps of small things.

Larger mods included.

intank pump (VL commodore, BRO) with a modded cradle

surge tank running two 044's.

Sounds like a have a super charger in the boot haha.

Z32 rear brakes:

Good to go except for needing longer brake lines,

will get some braided ones made up tomorrow.

Decided to sell the CST's off it, as they were abit to mexican on the front with S14 Lca's.

Brought some of these.

enkei_rpf1_silver.jpg

17x9 +22 front

17x10 +18 rear

Got em for a steal while in the usa last month, and got good coin for the cst's.

Also nice and light :)

Going to club circuit/hill climb it, not enough drift in vic, unless toff wants to organise a ceff skid meeting in Tas :P

Suspension re-vamp:

Changing back to my usual setup after driving it a few times, was running 10/8 combo with no swaybars.

Back to 8/6kg with large swaybars and decent coilovers, initially was thinking bilstein or ohlins, but the BC 'ER' series looking great for the price, when the inserts die, its a easy change to a better one.

r33 gtr wheels with 235 or 245 tyre R tyre should be enough.

Also looking at some sort of spoiler for the back for a bit of downforce.

some pics up soon.

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wheels have 3mm more 'poke' than the previous CST's,

with the wider width, the 235's should stretch abit more giving less rolling diameter, thus a tiny bit more clearance.

I had another go at bashing the inner wheel wells out on the rear, f**king hard yakka.

Might grab the grinder and start chopping :whistling:

Braided brake lines made today, fancy as hell.

Also chris, specs of those G7's at your work today?

I came past, you were on a delivery.

  • 4 months later...

Updates?

I lost the key for it haha.

Got tuned, 395rwkw, 20psi, on pump 98. makes 20 pounds at 4k rpm.

Limiter is only at 7200,

A twin/tripple plate, e85, 3.5 /4 inch exh and 10 more psi it should go close to 500rwkw, way way WAY beyond my driving abilities :)

Was going to run it down the strip this weekend at calder, but poo weather.

Leaving the coilovers in, but full slick and front runner combo.

Will most likely run a high 11 at 140ish mph haha.

Still need to fit oil cooler and change to r33 clutch fan and shroud setup.

  • 8 months later...

My key is too worn away to make a spare :P

Cleaning up for street duties and club sprints/ motorkana's.

Things ive brought / done.

R33 clutch fan and shroud fitted.

Weathersheilds.

S1 taillights, thanks konnect!

worked out what materials I need to paint it, colour will be Heron White, straight from the commodore.

Got some special rego plates that end in "H"

Some stuff I would also like/need to do.

fit 3" cat and mufflers

Compliant cage with padding.

Airbox

get the windowns re-tinted, nice and darkkkkk

Find my damn wheel lock nut key...

Thats about it.

Will get some pics when its had its colour change

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...