Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About 6 weeks back i crashed my car in the wet drifting (yes i was being an idiot) hit a wall and damaged the front end of my R34 4 door.

destroyed the Front bar down to the Radiator and bent the ends of the chassis rails on the rad support. I've taken the damaged parts off just gotta take the next step.

just needs some suggestions on panel beaters in the South Eastern Melbourne area and/or the cost to unpick the rad support/MIG a new one on and JIG the rails straight.

also does anyone know if the power brace of the r34 is inter-changeable with r33 ones?

post-70299-1276577355_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577386_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577418_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577511_thumb.jpg

post-70299-1276577540_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324938-drift-damage-need-help/
Share on other sites

You may want to take it to a repairer with access to a computerised jig (e.g. Car-o-liner) to see if it is repairable. I'm not sure of any repairers with one in the South East, but if you're willing to get the car to the Northern Suburbs shoot me off a PM I know of a shop that may be able to help you :glare:

About 6 weeks back i crashed my car in the wet drifting (yes i was being an idiot) hit a wall and damaged the front end of my R34 4 door.

destroyed the Front bar down to the Radiator and bent the ends of the chassis rails on the rad support. I've taken the damaged parts off just gotta take the next step.

just needs some suggestions on panel beaters in the South Eastern Melbourne area and/or the cost to unpick the rad support/MIG a new one on and JIG the rails straight.

also does anyone know if the power brace of the r34 is inter-changeable with r33 ones?

has the car been classed as a write off?

cause itll need a VIV cert to get back on the road if it has

either way big hit, like others have said will need to be put on a jig

You may want to take it to a repairer with access to a computerised jig (e.g. Car-o-liner) to see if it is repairable. I'm not sure of any repairers with one in the South East, but if you're willing to get the car to the Northern Suburbs shoot me off a PM I know of a shop that may be able to help you :P

Hey dude,

Mind sending me some info of said shop? I wanna get mine checked out for "straightness" and maybe pulled straight.

You may want to take it to a repairer with access to a computerised jig (e.g. Car-o-liner) to see if it is repairable. I'm not sure of any repairers with one in the South East, but if you're willing to get the car to the Northern Suburbs shoot me off a PM I know of a shop that may be able to help you :P

  • oxford panels, in huntingdale (car o liner)
  • sheen's in burwood (car o liner)
  • sheen's in east Malvern (car o liner)

lots of various views on accident damage people. from your photo's you external photo's look ok, but i agree with the people saying it should be lined up and possibly heated and flat racked.

if you don't do this you only option is to replace the suspension arm's and engine cross member. Don't go welding and straightening arm's they are week for a reason ! and now will only do well as a door stop or cofee table. (contact a wrecker for parts and interchageability)

make sure you get a wheel alignment afterwards, because your tyres will shred, you car will vibrate on the freeway and your going to do alot of damage to your steering components and i tell you now that outer tie rod's are $140 each from nissan (not available aftermarket), i don't think you want to know how much a steering rack is.

good luck.

p.s ive fixed alot of cars after a wet weekend or simply silly behaviour and if you want more advice PM me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...