Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh for the oil pressure I'm pretty set: T-piece into the oil pressure sensor and run a braided line from that, behind the block, and to the turbo.

As for the VCT, that's interesting that the R34 have a blanking bolt instead. Doesn't it run VCT anymore or something? But it's good to know that you guys have had no problem with going into the VCT.

The problem on a skyline is that the sump is a one piece, ie there is no sump pan per se. Thus, I've been told, it makes it impossible to try to remove the sump without taking out the engine because the oil pickup gets in the way. Unless I want to lift the engine a few cms and probably can just make it, but I don't know how much piping and shit I have to take off.

But what do you guys think about my earlier plan to try and get the filing out by other means such as magnetic oil filters with more frequent change, magnetic sump plug, and more frequent oil change? Do you rkon that will stop all the filing from getting through or am I missing something important?

you will get some of the filings out but not all of it. the only way to get it all out is to remove the sump and do it off the engine.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey, just got home, had an insane day of work....like 6 hours more then I planned, really sorry, will try my best to get some done this wkend.

That's alright mate. I think I might have solved the problem by T-piecing into the VCT anyway. I'll post up some pictures once I've finalised it because I've only made the dummy and it looks like it might just work :D

you will get some of the filings out but not all of it. the only way to get it all out is to remove the sump and do it off the engine.

True. Thanks for the heads up. I'm pretty much trying my best not to go down the path of tapping into the block, so hopefully I might not need to worry about the filings

Edited by mjscar

Hey, this was the best I could do today as I have a heatshield I made to hide the turbo, gate, screamer pipe, etc... and the only way i can get down there is to jack it up and all that...

so for now i have the pic below, I know it is not much...

Also I will go through some old pics and I might have a few from when i was down there changing turbos.

post-36975-1276942500_thumb.jpg

Cheers for the pics WYTSKY.

By the looks of it, it seems that you either had a bung in the side of your block and you just used that, or you tapped into your block because your oil return is exactly where the stock oil return location is. Damn! But thank you very much nonetheless mate.

Does anyone have any pictures of their setup which uses the VCT as their oil return or other means as their oil return? Would be much appreciated.

My R33 GTS4 didn’t have an oil return bung (had a feed though) and had an alloy sump (AWD), I wanted to tap it but couldn’t get to it and didn’t want to pull the engine out, so I used the VCT return. I cut the metal VCT line short, put a T piece in with one end the same size as the VCT, but the other ends the larger size (the same as the normal turbo drain). I replaced the block's VCT fitting with the larger fitting used for the factory turbo return. I then cut the turbo drain pipe as short as possible, and ran a silicone hose (one that couldn’t be kinked) to the T-piece.

I have never had a problem, just make sure you have no inclines in your return line, it must always be on a downward angle (a slight level at the T piece etc is OK).

^Adam, thats the oil feed line, i believe he is after the oil return.

lol, I know mate, but look in the bottom right hand corner, thats the oil return line :P

Cheers for the pics WYTSKY.

By the looks of it, it seems that you either had a bung in the side of your block and you just used that, or you tapped into your block because your oil return is exactly where the stock oil return location is. Damn! But thank you very much nonetheless mate.

Does anyone have any pictures of their setup which uses the VCT as their oil return or other means as their oil return? Would be much appreciated.

Yeh i am pretty damn sure oil return was tapped... ie no bung, sorry thats all i can really remember.

lol, I know mate, but look in the bottom right hand corner, thats the oil return line :thumbsup:

Yeh i am pretty damn sure oil return was tapped... ie no bung, sorry thats all i can really remember.

fk my eyes i didnt even see that, thats the exact return i used :whistling:

My R33 GTS4 didn’t have an oil return bung (had a feed though) and had an alloy sump (AWD), I wanted to tap it but couldn’t get to it and didn’t want to pull the engine out, so I used the VCT return. I cut the metal VCT line short, put a T piece in with one end the same size as the VCT, but the other ends the larger size (the same as the normal turbo drain). I replaced the block's VCT fitting with the larger fitting used for the factory turbo return. I then cut the turbo drain pipe as short as possible, and ran a silicone hose (one that couldn’t be kinked) to the T-piece.

I have never had a problem, just make sure you have no inclines in your return line, it must always be on a downward angle (a slight level at the T piece etc is OK).

Awesome. That's exactly what I am trying to do now so it's good to know that somebody have done it this way without any problems.

While that's in the works, what spark plugs did you guys use? I read in the big +T thread that you had to run a higher rating spark plug or something so you don't run into problems. What did you guys end up running and what is the gap for them?

Thanks.

Awesome. That's exactly what I am trying to do now so it's good to know that somebody have done it this way without any problems.

While that's in the works, what spark plugs did you guys use? I read in the big +T thread that you had to run a higher rating spark plug or something so you don't run into problems. What did you guys end up running and what is the gap for them?

Thanks.

I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.

I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.

+1. they have never given me any probs..

I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.

Sweet. So 1.1mm gap would be good for stock turbo running ~12psi with aftermarket injectors and some light mods?

Thanks guys. I'll get some tomorrow.

Sweet. So 1.1mm gap would be good for stock turbo running ~12psi with aftermarket injectors and some light mods?

Thanks guys. I'll get some tomorrow.

Neg, I think you'd be better off with 0.8mm gap. If you buy NGK BCPR7ES-11 they will have a 1.1mm gap (what I baught initially and gapped down, they were good on stock boost) but if you just buy BCPR7ES they will already be gapped at 0.8, which imo would be best if your after 12psi.

Neg, I think you'd be better off with 0.8mm gap. If you buy NGK BCPR7ES-11 they will have a 1.1mm gap (what I baught initially and gapped down, they were good on stock boost) but if you just buy BCPR7ES they will already be gapped at 0.8, which imo would be best if your after 12psi.

Roger that. Thanks.

Ok. Everytime I make progress, I always seem to hit a wall.

Now I'm having trouble hooking up the BOV to the intake. I can't find a place that sells the tubing that goes into the intake and the hose to join them up. Should I try to buy a stock hose + tubing or did you guys do something custom?

hahaha, 29mm isn’t it? That was an absolute nightmare, I searched everywhere for that stuff, non existent. The closest i could find was some marine hose that was going to be a loose fit, but $120 per meter!!!

I ended up fitting an ATMO bov until I could come across the stock intake and plumb back bov/breather piping. Took me ages, but then instantly ended up with 2 because when I converted it to plumb back and sold the ATMO, the bloke gave me his stock bov and piping *face palm*.

Edited by SKiT_R31
hahaha, 29mm isn’t it? That was an absolute nightmare, I searched everywhere for that stuff, non existent. The closest i could find was some marine hose that was going to be a loose fit, but $120 per meter!!!

I ended up fitting an ATMO bov until I could come across the stock intake and plumb back bov/breather piping. Took me ages, but then instantly ended up with 2 because when I converted it to plumb back and sold the ATMO, the bloke gave me his stock bov and piping *face palm*.

Hahaha ok it's good to know I'm not the only one :P

You by any chance selling one of those piping? :angry:

If not, I'll try to hopefully find one from a wrecker or somebody from the forum. BTW, did you have problems with the ATMO bov? I heard they give you stalling issues or something.

Never had any issues with stalling, I just didnt like it so loud. I only have a std piping through an R34 intercooler though, i think you'd have more issue with a FMIC since there is a much higher volume of metered air to vent.

PM me an offer on the piping, do you need a std bov? I can also shoot you a photo to make things clearer. (If you dont know what it looks like, as i didnt)

Edited by SKiT_R31

I think it's more to do with the AFM measuring air flowing into the intake, the ECU then making adjustments accordingly, and then a portion of that air is vented to atmosphere, but the ECU still thinks it's in the loop. The alternative being a MAP Sensor so the ECU can see the drop in Manifold Air Pressure.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly certain that's what causes the issues associated with Atmo BOV's.

The other issue with Atmo BOV's of course is that it's venting emissions that haven't passed through the cat converter therefore making them a defectable modification.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...