Jump to content
SAU Community

Wanted: Info about 4wd turbo Bluebirds

locASH

By locASH,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

For compliance I used, if I can remember, Raj and some other company. No the brain isn't so good now. It's been a few years.

Getting owned by the missus is not so bad, mine likes to give it a bit occassionally :(

The Blueys drama is weight but the AWD helps out on the standing start.

Deano's posted site has a number of errors, quoting the auto weight for the 'line (33) when the manual is 1360kg but the manual time 0-100, as a stock auto won't do that. Th bluey is really fat and down a lot on power so that accounts for the higher speed deficit. I would suggest that on Oz fuel that would be accurate for 0-100 for the line, but probably G-Teched which tends to the low side of innaccurate. I now hover around 5 flat but the suspension is all for track, and dry at that. Been flogged merciless by an almost stock 33 in the wet at sandown in the corners but smoked him on the straights. In the dry would be different with the short slip diff and aggressive suspension. What it has taught me is that not all sprints are dry, so I need to have a more moderate setup that i can modify for different conditions.

Deano, thanks for posting that site link. By wits I mean the somewhat older term as referred to in this dictionary http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=wit

Don't take it the wrong way. I have a fair education and a lot of experience as a mechanic and with imports, but the engineer in me gets a little peaked when i see unsubstantiated figures peddled without support. I had to know these things automatically so when asked by customers I was able to answer so i always refer to the original factory specs.

locASH, sorry about the hijack, but you should be starting to get an opinion of the bluey by now and all I can recommend is get one, just a manual if possible.

deano_33 Enthusiast

deano_33

Posted
Posted

Ha ha, on a crazy tangent - isn't the internet awesome for this sort of stuff. So much information but it's so hard to sort through the crap to find decent info - I know I have trouble sometimes, I can't believe I turned into one of those sprouting inaccurate information. Your'e right skylinegeoff - I was just being a bit defensive.

deano_33 Enthusiast

deano_33

Posted
Posted

Ha ha, on a crazy tangent - isn't the internet awesome for this sort of stuff. So much information but it's so hard to sort through the crap to find decent info - I know I have trouble sometimes, I can't believe I turned into one of those sprouting inaccurate information. Your'e right skylinegeoff - I was just being a bit defensive.

Yeah I wouldn't treat that site like it's the bible either - obviously I was misled by it.

DaiOni Experienced

DaiOni

Posted
Posted

"Th bluey is really fat and down a lot on power so that accounts for the higher speed deficit"

The figure I've seen quoted is 1380kg - that's a HPI quote so it could well be wrong (though they are quite small cars, really). They put the bluebird at about .10 slower over 400m, and .001 over 0-100 - compared to an r33 (they are manual figures)

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

No try 1480kg @ 155kW = 9.55kW/kg

vs

1360kg @ 187kW = 7.27kW/kg which means rolling response will suffer. It has an advantage in the AWD which is lost to the lower power and higher weight. Even if it was 1360 it still has a large power disadvantage.

Not everyone really gives a rats about the drag time or 0-100 tho. The bluey will be a great allrounder with a great confidence building AWD system that will terrorise GTST's in the wet. Fantastic everyday car. I will guarantee that it will stink on the track untill modified a little cos of the doughy suspension, but not everyone wants to come and play there either.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted
No try 1480kg @ 155kW = 9.55kW/kg

vs  

1360kg @ 187kW = 7.27kW/kg

Isn't that supposed to be 9.55kg/Kw and 7.27kg/Kw ?? :(

Interesting read this thread seems I almost bought one when before I bought the R33.

I also thought the Bluebirds were mainly FWD until there was slip, then the backs kicked in, it's just what I was told for the car dealers so it could be a load of :bs!:

Probably the only two things that stopped me from buying one was the FWD thing, plus I wanted a manual, and manuals are sooooo hard to find :(

Very nice cars though, and could be pretty damn fast with a few mods.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • zillah
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By zillah · Posted

      Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Kinkstaah
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...