Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have owned this car for 6 years .

For two of those years, I was out of the country, and for the other 4 years I pretty much drove it. It's never seen a quarter mile or a track.

If your after a show car conditioned GTR then this is not the car for you. It has 117k on the clock.

I had the motor rebuilt by Advan a year after I bought it and reconditioned the head , and that was done at 65k. Has roughly 320+KW at the wheels, I can't remember exactly cause it was that long ago since I did the tune and dont have the sheet anymore( will continue to look for it though). The body isn't great, has paint fade on the roof and in spots, bottom lip on front spoiler is cracked, and some hail dings.

Interior is in good condition.

Mechanically though, there is nothing to spend. I have just installed

-Brand new HD Exceedy clutch

-Brand new RDA brakes and rotors front and back.

- New Nankang 18's ( I know what your thinking ' Nankangs WTF' but my wife drives it to work now, so there is no high performance needed for that.

Had the engine pulled down and checked over while clutch was out and installed new big and small end bearings and metal gaskets.

The motor was said to still be nice and tidy when pulled down.

List of modifications include -

-Arias Pistons

-Trust Metal Gasket

-Sard 770cc injectors

-Trust Fuel Rail

-G Reddy Oil Cooler/ Relocator kit

-Trust Front mount intercooler

-Twin Apexi Air Filters

-Power Enterprise Response Series Turbos and dumps.

-Upgraded intank fuel pump ( cant remember which one )

-Alloy Radiator

- 3.5'inch Jap Aftermarket exhaust

- 18' driftek rims.

-Blitz electronic boost controller

- turbo timer

Anyway, I have owned and enjoyed it for long enough. I'm after $17500 not negotiable. If it doesn't sell at that then I get to keep it and continue to keep driving it I guess. If your after a showcar, like I said, this isn't the car for you, but if your after a reliable reasonably powered GTR with a bit of character, then might be worth a look.

Graham

0431540388

Newcastle

PS. I drive it to sydney most weekends for training I do down there, if that makes it easier for a look.

Cheers.

Will post more pics up tomorrow, this is the only one on my comp right now.

post-30112-1277212491_thumb.jpg

post-30112-1277212666_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325938-another-1995-r33-v-spec-gtr-maroon/
Share on other sites

wow....exceptional price...for once a seller who isn't daydreaming that their car is worth what it was 10 years ago. this looks to be a great buy - I know I'd rather roll the dice on bodywork than on mechanicals.....

if only you'd take an R32 GTR as a trade in (mine is similar to yours - needs some TLC) - otherwise good luck with the sale - should go quickly

Cheers.

Not after a trade but thanks. I think it's different when you own the car for so long and have driven it, I personally feel like I have enjoyed it and gotten my value for money out of the car over the years. If I had only owned it 12 months or so, then I guess I would have a hard time excepting to let it go at that price. If I don't sell it, then I will get more driving pleasure out of it. Well my wife will. I am stuck with the Subaru Wagon and a babyseat cause I am the stay home dad now and she drives it to work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...