Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends how accurate you want it to be. If you just want it as a pretty moving gauge that attracts some attention then go the cheapest. If you actually want it for monitoring your boost then you will need to spend a bit more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325958-boost-gauges/#findComment-5307633
Share on other sites

it doesnt have to be an expensive gauge to be accurate, just as long as it's a decent brand.

i'm using a vdo mech gauge right now. have been using it for a while. it's always spot on.

had a splitfire in the car when i bought it. seemed pretty good. autometer was also good.

i hooked up a calibre gauge. it was out by a couple of psi. autogauge, same crap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325958-boost-gauges/#findComment-5307713
Share on other sites

if they are inaccurate it wont be by much, if your only running stock psi or there abouts, just get a cheapo one, if your pushing pounds then you need a good one, as its important to know exactly whats going on with the boost at higher levels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325958-boost-gauges/#findComment-5307716
Share on other sites

Yeh it's not so much that they are out by much, although my old cheap vacuum gauge was out by 6 in/HG, it's more that they are prone to random inaccuracies which leaves you wondering if something is wrong or if it is just your gauge. If you are going to buy cheap then I would recommend getting a mechanical gauge, they tend to break easier but are more accurate than an equivalently priced electrical gauge, the cheap stepper motors just don't cut it. If you want electrical then I would spend a little bit more and get a decent gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325958-boost-gauges/#findComment-5307814
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...