Jump to content
SAU Community

Terrible Radio Reception

sturb25
 Share

Recommended Posts

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
Posted

Hay guys,

I guess im wondering if anyone else has shit radio reception and what can be done to improve it.. Its generally pretty fine around the city but has some areas where its completely crap and as soon as you get past around the 50km mark from the city the radio becomes non existant.

When i bought the car it had a jap radio it it which only had a very narrow band and it was really bad so i put my aussie cd player in and that made it marginally better but its still crap.

Is anyone else having this same problem and what have you done about it?

Stu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327311-terrible-radio-reception/
Share on other sites
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted
Hay guys,

I guess im wondering if anyone else has shit radio reception and what can be done to improve it.. Its generally pretty fine around the city but has some areas where its completely crap and as soon as you get past around the 50km mark from the city the radio becomes non existant.

When i bought the car it had a jap radio it it which only had a very narrow band and it was really bad so i put my aussie cd player in and that made it marginally better but its still crap.

Is anyone else having this same problem and what have you done about it?

Stu

just make sure you connected power to the antenna amplifiers when you installed new head unit, from memory it is the wire linked to the antenna plug behind the head unit.

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just make sure you connected power to the antenna amplifiers when you installed new head unit, from memory it is the wire linked to the antenna plug behind the head unit.

Does it need positive 12v power to that plug? that would probably explain why my radio is so shit!!

  • 4 weeks later...
sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
nothing to buy, factors amplifiers are hidden away behind rear door, your power wire will be there.

I finally deciced to try this power amplifier thing and i cant seem to find the wire. At the back of the loom where the aerial plugs into the back of the stereo i have to plugs, one smaller than the other. The bigger one plugs into the back of the stereo. I follow that back and it goes to a black socket type join, i follow it back further and it goes to a white plug with one wire coming from it, that wire goes straight back into the main loom. Im pretty clueless when it comes to car electrics. Can u please help?

Thanks

Stuart

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
Posted
Ill send you some pics either this arvo or tomorrow.

While on the top of Radio Reception, I've still got the factory m35 A/V set-up but what I'm wondering is what will I pick-up in the way of Digital Radio with the Hawk Ranger III once installed?

I will mostly be in the Blacktown / Granville regions.

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

OK, blue wire is my antenna power from my head unit (so amps on come on ONLY when i select radio). This goes to the white wire (bottom arrow), which in turn feeds 12V to yellow black wire (top arrow) and on to amps. You may have had your wires cut, so may not have original block like mine.

post-780-1280647676_thumb.jpg

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

pretty sure it is cabin temperature sensor, plugs into dash, left and below of steering wheel where the sensor is, the job of this pipe is to draw air past the sensor when the air con is on. If you dont have climate control, mighten have this sensor.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
pretty sure it is cabin temperature sensor, plugs into dash, left and below of steering wheel where the sensor is, the job of this pipe is to draw air past the sensor when the air con is on. If you dont have climate control, mighten have this sensor.

AFAIK it has climate control. The A/C unit is the same as RS. It has the temp sensor mounted behind the front bar but only has dash sensor on pass. side of dash.

The part the pipe fits to in the pic is not there.

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
OK, blue wire is my antenna power from my head unit (so amps on come on ONLY when i select radio). This goes to the white wire (bottom arrow), which in turn feeds 12V to yellow black wire (top arrow) and on to amps. You may have had your wires cut, so may not have original block like mine.

Thanks all sorted. Its still not 100% but what can you expect when you live on a mountain. Its alot better than its ever been. At least it doesnt drop out all together. Thank you very much

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...