Jump to content
SAU Community

Terrible Radio Reception

sturb25
 Share

Recommended Posts

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
Posted

Hay guys,

I guess im wondering if anyone else has shit radio reception and what can be done to improve it.. Its generally pretty fine around the city but has some areas where its completely crap and as soon as you get past around the 50km mark from the city the radio becomes non existant.

When i bought the car it had a jap radio it it which only had a very narrow band and it was really bad so i put my aussie cd player in and that made it marginally better but its still crap.

Is anyone else having this same problem and what have you done about it?

Stu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327311-terrible-radio-reception/
Share on other sites
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted
Hay guys,

I guess im wondering if anyone else has shit radio reception and what can be done to improve it.. Its generally pretty fine around the city but has some areas where its completely crap and as soon as you get past around the 50km mark from the city the radio becomes non existant.

When i bought the car it had a jap radio it it which only had a very narrow band and it was really bad so i put my aussie cd player in and that made it marginally better but its still crap.

Is anyone else having this same problem and what have you done about it?

Stu

just make sure you connected power to the antenna amplifiers when you installed new head unit, from memory it is the wire linked to the antenna plug behind the head unit.

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just make sure you connected power to the antenna amplifiers when you installed new head unit, from memory it is the wire linked to the antenna plug behind the head unit.

Does it need positive 12v power to that plug? that would probably explain why my radio is so shit!!

  • 4 weeks later...
sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
nothing to buy, factors amplifiers are hidden away behind rear door, your power wire will be there.

I finally deciced to try this power amplifier thing and i cant seem to find the wire. At the back of the loom where the aerial plugs into the back of the stereo i have to plugs, one smaller than the other. The bigger one plugs into the back of the stereo. I follow that back and it goes to a black socket type join, i follow it back further and it goes to a white plug with one wire coming from it, that wire goes straight back into the main loom. Im pretty clueless when it comes to car electrics. Can u please help?

Thanks

Stuart

Bis-e Bee Mentor

Bis-e Bee

Posted
Posted
Ill send you some pics either this arvo or tomorrow.

While on the top of Radio Reception, I've still got the factory m35 A/V set-up but what I'm wondering is what will I pick-up in the way of Digital Radio with the Hawk Ranger III once installed?

I will mostly be in the Blacktown / Granville regions.

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

OK, blue wire is my antenna power from my head unit (so amps on come on ONLY when i select radio). This goes to the white wire (bottom arrow), which in turn feeds 12V to yellow black wire (top arrow) and on to amps. You may have had your wires cut, so may not have original block like mine.

post-780-1280647676_thumb.jpg

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

pretty sure it is cabin temperature sensor, plugs into dash, left and below of steering wheel where the sensor is, the job of this pipe is to draw air past the sensor when the air con is on. If you dont have climate control, mighten have this sensor.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
pretty sure it is cabin temperature sensor, plugs into dash, left and below of steering wheel where the sensor is, the job of this pipe is to draw air past the sensor when the air con is on. If you dont have climate control, mighten have this sensor.

AFAIK it has climate control. The A/C unit is the same as RS. It has the temp sensor mounted behind the front bar but only has dash sensor on pass. side of dash.

The part the pipe fits to in the pic is not there.

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
OK, blue wire is my antenna power from my head unit (so amps on come on ONLY when i select radio). This goes to the white wire (bottom arrow), which in turn feeds 12V to yellow black wire (top arrow) and on to amps. You may have had your wires cut, so may not have original block like mine.

Thanks all sorted. Its still not 100% but what can you expect when you live on a mountain. Its alot better than its ever been. At least it doesnt drop out all together. Thank you very much

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • DannyDee2
      First time owner v35

      By DannyDee2 · Posted

      Welcome mate!
    • DannyDee2
      Trans oil cooler off a Stagea

      By DannyDee2 · Posted

      I'm interested,do you still have it?
    • luke gtr
      First time owner v35

      By luke gtr · Posted

      Deutz v8?
×
×
  • Create New...