Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, today i went to winton and put my car on the track, on the 4th run when i hit 7k rpm i noticed my engine light flicker and id lose all power no boost at all. and then i tought id put it on low boost and hit 7k rpm and see what happens, i hit 8k rpm with no problems, droped the clutch in low boost no problem, droped it in high boost, engine light and lose of boost at 7k rpm. i currently have a high flowed turbo, apexi power fc tuned by trent at status, but what i do have is stock injectors, im leaning towards that as the problem i have a feeling even thou it was tuned so the injectors can handle that psi just, that they are now failing am i correct? and also i had high boost tuned at 15psi and low at 11psi i think and now on high boost im only hitting 14psi.

any help would be much apprieciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/327358-engine-light-problem-help/
Share on other sites

covered in the PFC FAQ in my sig

there are 4 things that will flash the engine check light

the FAQ will tell you

"Things such as airflow meter max value, injector max duty, excessive knock will cause the engine warning to flash."

thanks for that paul, so i take it my stock injectors cant handle the boost :P

insted of my creating another thread. id like to know what injectors can hold 20psi and are direct feed please. thanks

and a std sensor failing or going out of range

so before you start fixing things, you need to first isolate what it was

i would suggest given you have stock injectors, its likely to be that

but you should check

id recommend

MONITOR

4 CHANNEL

AIRFLOW

KNOCK

INJ DUTY

BOOST

PRESS NEXT

make sure its on digital read out (that is each item is a number)

press RIGHT to clear their top score

flog the car to redline

and see if the light comes on

check the max values for each

each have their own trigger value to make the engine check light come on

the FAQ tells you how to check it and change it

and the FAQ also includes online emulator if you are unsure what keys to press on the hand controller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...