Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm close to buying an exhaust for my R33 GTS25T. I am on a budget and these are my options for an exhaust as I see it:

OPTION 1: Full 3" Custom Mandrel Bent system including dump pipe, Hi-Flo Cat and stainless steel muffler. Best price quoted: $1080 Fitted

OPTION 2: APexi or HKS Stainless Steel Cat-back only: $1200 (not fitted)

I'm seriously considering Option 1 only because I think it will give me a bit more power with the dump pipe and HI-FLO cat, and it is a bit cheaper :) What do you guys think?

sounds great amd it doent sit to low like some of the brand named ones it a little bigger than 3" mines 31/4" pipe from the turbo back and a 4" tail pipe, that sits back under the car a little. no one ever see it so why spend heaps of money on it, spend what you save on something that people can see

$1080, and thats a cheap option????

Dont do it, buy a second hand Jap one, they flow well (they have been developing these things for a long time), they fit up perfectly (their systems are modular, and they change out in a few minutes), and they will retain their resale value.

I have now tried 3 different cat backs, an apexi N1, a nismo street legal, and now on a HKS super dragger. All up it has cost me $50 to swap between them, if you shop around, you can find a good system at a good price and if you sell it get your money back, try that with some no name made system.

If you want power I can recommend either the N1 or super dragger, both flow very well, if you want street legal, go something like the nismo.

And you can expect $300 plus change from your $1080 if you buy second hand Jap system, and that is a pretty good saving IMHO

Just be careful buying an unknown quantity - it may be 3", but how well does it flow? do you have a verifyable result available to check? I have had 3 cat back systems, and they all flowed very differently, and made for a different car to drive.

Upside to buying a Jap cat back would be ease of fitment (all modular systems ), proven product (alot of R+D) and good resale value if you want to change it.

I have spent $50 changing my cat back systems, I am on my 3rd system, cos I wasnt 100% happy with the previous ones (too loud, quiet but choked top end above 290rwkw, and now just about spot on)

If you are after good power, get an N1 system (as long as noise isnt an issue). dump pipe wont make a huge difference with stock turbo, but front pipe will as will cat - with cat, make sure it is a high flow, not just a standard cat with 3" flanges. I have seen a few of these getting around, and they are a total waste of money.

lukits01, what to look for depends on what you want.

Noise and power go hand in hand, but noise doenst always mean power.

Look for 80mm+ diameter, straight pipes, ie the more severe the bends the more restrictive

Mufflers/resonators should be straight through design and the same diameter as the pipe

A good example is the Apexi N1 system, and as the pipe has few bends, the rear resonator sticks out at an angle.

lukits01, what to look for depends on what you want.

Noise and power go hand in hand, but noise doenst always mean power.

Look for 80mm+ diameter, straight pipes, ie the more severe the bends the more restrictive

Mufflers/resonators should be straight through design and the same diameter as the pipe

A good example is the Apexi N1 system, and as the pipe has few bends, the rear resonator sticks out at an angle.

thats right the straighter the pipe the better and make sure that the cat and muffler are the same size as the rest of the pipe, other wise your wasting your time....

Myth33, cat size is usually (AFAIK) measured in litres. A true highflow cat will be alot larger in diameter than the stock one. Some highflows are only marginally larger. Cats are a major restriction, therefore, make sure you have a look at a few and get the largest one you can find.

Internally they are all pretty much the same design, with a honeycombe type arrangement, which wont vary a heap, but often inside has thick packing material between the catalyst and the side of the canister - so even though it looks alot larger, it may not be quite so good.

the people I know that have used the exhuast plug that goes in the rear of the tail pipe have all said it kills power a fair bit. I know a guy with a 250rwkw supra that had one, then changed to an Apex flap valve, and found that alot better, and more user friendly as it can be adjusted from inside the car - a bit more expensive though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...