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isn't the flywheel power calculated by doing the power run and then letting the engine run back down (rather than applying the brakes to slow it down or pushing the clutch in)? this allows it to measure the resistance of the gearbox, etc and then work out the loss. i'm not totally sure, but i thought that this was 1 way of calculating it on a dyno. i know that true engine power can only be found on an engine dyno, but i thought that the calculated power could be worked out, and i am assuming that this is what has been done in this case.

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in reponse to the original post..

this exact symptom happened to me where the engine effectively "shuts down" for a second very violently and then keeps on driving but you have to stay off the gas to prevent it happening frequently.

in my case it was a coil(s) starting to play up and having a giant misfire. when i upped the boost to 15psi or so, it would suddenly have a violent stall once boost got up there, so i wound back the boost and problem was solved. however in the coming weeks it started having a slight misfire even at low boost and we realised it was coils causing it. the higher the boost, the worse it got.

this may not be your issue, just another possibility. i hadn't experienced rich&retard before but i thought there was no way in hell it would respond as violently as that. it would literally throw you forward and break your nose on the dash if you weren't wearing a seat belt.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,

Just try'n to look up some info. I would like to run 10-11 psi with a boost T I got ready to install. How high can I actually go before rich and retard kicks in?

Would I need to install and retune with a new ecu chip or get a different air flow meter? What actually causes it and can i get that kind of boost from the stock ecu?

I hear some people talk about an R32 actuator... does that help?

I got only a 3" turbo back exhaust at the moment and getting 8psi. A walbro fuel pump is on the way though.

Still learning...

regards,

Dan

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Hello there!

As the starter of this thread I have found out that it was not R&R, but fuel cut.

Once the ECU detects a certain load level it shuts down the engine by interrupting ignition and fuel.

Since I have started this thread I got myself Nistune and all is sorted out now.

I know a great deal more now about the ECU and I can recommend Nistune to anyone planning

to increase HP over a certain level.

Cheers ...

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