LANDSCRIBBLE Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 im in the exact same boat matey.. 350 rwhp eh? what turbo you thinking of buying? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328005-is-it-rr/page/2/#findComment-5336126 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad082 Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 isn't the flywheel power calculated by doing the power run and then letting the engine run back down (rather than applying the brakes to slow it down or pushing the clutch in)? this allows it to measure the resistance of the gearbox, etc and then work out the loss. i'm not totally sure, but i thought that this was 1 way of calculating it on a dyno. i know that true engine power can only be found on an engine dyno, but i thought that the calculated power could be worked out, and i am assuming that this is what has been done in this case. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328005-is-it-rr/page/2/#findComment-5337054 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spurdo Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 in reponse to the original post.. this exact symptom happened to me where the engine effectively "shuts down" for a second very violently and then keeps on driving but you have to stay off the gas to prevent it happening frequently. in my case it was a coil(s) starting to play up and having a giant misfire. when i upped the boost to 15psi or so, it would suddenly have a violent stall once boost got up there, so i wound back the boost and problem was solved. however in the coming weeks it started having a slight misfire even at low boost and we realised it was coils causing it. the higher the boost, the worse it got. this may not be your issue, just another possibility. i hadn't experienced rich&retard before but i thought there was no way in hell it would respond as violently as that. it would literally throw you forward and break your nose on the dash if you weren't wearing a seat belt. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328005-is-it-rr/page/2/#findComment-5337438 Share on other sites More sharing options...
senilykSkylines Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Hi guys, Just try'n to look up some info. I would like to run 10-11 psi with a boost T I got ready to install. How high can I actually go before rich and retard kicks in? Would I need to install and retune with a new ecu chip or get a different air flow meter? What actually causes it and can i get that kind of boost from the stock ecu? I hear some people talk about an R32 actuator... does that help? I got only a 3" turbo back exhaust at the moment and getting 8psi. A walbro fuel pump is on the way though. Still learning... regards, Dan Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328005-is-it-rr/page/2/#findComment-5466242 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonnoHR31 Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 every cars different. try it and see Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328005-is-it-rr/page/2/#findComment-5466263 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torques Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 Hello there! As the starter of this thread I have found out that it was not R&R, but fuel cut. Once the ECU detects a certain load level it shuts down the engine by interrupting ignition and fuel. Since I have started this thread I got myself Nistune and all is sorted out now. I know a great deal more now about the ECU and I can recommend Nistune to anyone planning to increase HP over a certain level. Cheers ... Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328005-is-it-rr/page/2/#findComment-5466452 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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